Dolce & Gabbana
“Sophia Loren meets Greek theater meets romantic cherubs— and it’s sunny and hot!” That was how the makeup artist Pat McGrath described the luminous faces on the Dolce & Gabbana spring runway. She found inspiration in the Fellini film Satyricon and added a touch of Greek tragedy using liquid gold “tears,” concocted with Dolce & Gabbana Sheer Shine Gloss in Acqua mixed with Perfect Mono Eyeshadow in Gold Dust.
Dolce & Gabbana crown.
In McGrath’s wildly creative mind, even a tiny bead can inspire an intricate look. In this case, the bead, which McGrath found in a Paris flea market, along with various other bits and baubles, ended up on these twinkly masks, which are very similar to the ones she conceived for the Givenchy spring runway show. “We used glitter, sequins, beading, two types of paint, and delicate black netting as a finishing touch over the eyes,” McGrath says of those creations, which were covered with 1,500 Swarovski crystals and required 40 pairs of hands to assemble. The vibe was “international warrior princess.” McGrath tapped her longtime collaborator, the manicurist Bernadette Thompson, to complement the Givenchy masks with matching nails. “The almond shape keeps it looking chic and elegant,” McGrath says. “Yet at the same time it expresses a strong tribal theme.”
From left: Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci jacket, bodysuit, and trousers. Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci tops, skirt, and earrings. Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci tops, skirt, and earrings.
For the rebellious girls at Prada, McGrath pulled out the airbrush gun to “graffiti” the models’ lids, a technique she reprised here with even stronger pigments. “It was meant to mimic the embroidery of the fabrics and the graffitied walls at the show,” says McGrath of the look. For the runway, she kept the lips nude, but here she opted for a rich matte-scarlet pout. “This is one of those strong women.” Indeed
Prada coat, dress, and bracelets.
Hair by Jimmy Paul for Bumble and bumble; makeup by Pat McGrath for Dolce & Gabbana the Make Up; manicures by Bernadette Thompson for the Bernadette Thompson Nail Collection.