For the record, Sonia Rykiel does not do couture. Couture, in a certain sense, was exactly what Rykiel rebelled against when she set up shop on the other side of the Seine, on the Left Bank, in the 1960s. The St. Germain neighborhood, the name of which Rykiel emblazoned on cozy knits for the better part of four decades, was also home to the 1968 student uprising and was a hotbed for pushing the culture forward. When the maison was invited to present at Paris Couture Week in honor of their 50th anniversary this week, artistic director Julie de Libran jumped at the chance to honor the house’s founder and show the prowess of the atelier. She just insisted on doing it in a very Rykiel way. Today’s collection, called L’Atelier—not couture—was presented in the breathtaking courtyard of the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts. Under a shining sun, de Libran presented the chunkiest of knits, elegant plumes of feathers on hats, dresses, and sheer shirts, and numerous takes on suiting—all sans bra, just as Rykiel would have. The rich archive of the half-century old label informed much of today’s collection; here, we’ve taken a look at the archival runway looks, personal notes from Sonia Rykiel herself, and moments from the 70’s, 80’s, and early 00’s that inspired today’s not-couture presentation.