Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!
Who
Justin Cogley, the Michelin star-decorated executive chef of beloved Carmel-by-the-Sea restaurant Aubergine; Alissa Carnazzo, the stationery designer behind Alissa Bell Press and co-owner of Stationæry; and Susan Galvin, founder and owner of Foxy Couture, a designer resale boutique in the town’s shopping district.
What
What to Bring
“In one word: layers,” says Galvin, who explains that temperatures often swing from brisk in the morning to quite warm later in the day. Moreover, as Carnazzo points out, fog might hit at any time—even in the summer. Being prepared; it sets you apart from the tourists. “I keep what I jokingly call my ‘Carmel lady coat’ on hand at all times,” she says.
Cogley also notes that Carmel by the Sea is an outdoorsy destination best enjoyed on foot, so comfortable shoes are essential. He suggests hiking boots specifically for exploring the area’s myriad craggy trails.
What to Leave Behind
Fun fact: For over a century, it’s technically been illegal to wear heels in Carmel-by-the-Sea (you can easily obtain a “permit” for them at City Hall, though). And while this law has not been enforced in decades, both Carnazzo and Galvin stand firm on the fact that stilettos and pumps are totally impractical for the town’s oft-uneven terrain. “Our cobblestone sidewalks and cottage pathways were not built with heels in mind,” says Carnazzo. “I recently rolled an ankle in my cute new Rachel Comey clogs—so even I need to be reminded!”
Also, despite Carmel-by-the-Sea’s many beaches, Cogley says you don’t necessarily need a bathing suit on hand to enjoy them. “The average ocean temperature is between 50 and 59 degrees, so most people wear wetsuits,” he explains. However, double check if your hotel or rental has a pool—you’ll definitely want swimwear for that.
What to Keep in Mind
Carmel-by-the-Sea is a quaint and tranquil beach town, says Cogley, and not the kind of place with wild parties. “Loud music or drone use on the beach isn’t appreciated,” he says. “We are protective of the natural environment, so take trash with you, clean up after your dog, and stay off fragile dunes.”
That said, the locals have a reputation for being quite friendly and welcoming, so you can expect to strike up conversations with more than a few strangers. “People here will stop to talk; they’ll recommend a beach, insist you try a pastry, tell you about the latest gossip, or ask how long you’re staying,” says Carnazzo. “The town runs on relationships.”
Most residents, she continues, are also extraordinarily passionate about their canine companions. “Dogs are everywhere and welcomed most places,” she says. “I always joke that the order of importance in Carmel is: trees, dogs, and then people.”
Where
Where to Stay
“Villa Mara is where you stay when you’re visiting without kids,” says Carnazzo. She calls out the luxury property for its secluded Carmel Point location 20 minutes outside the town center, plus the airy and inviting aesthetic. Galvin agrees, and describes the spot as romantic.
If, however, you prefer a larger, more centrally located spot, Carnazzo notes you can’t go wrong with La Playa. “It’s close to town with stunning gardens, beautiful ocean views, and Bud’s bar upstairs—which has become a true local living room,” she says. In a similar vein, Cogley suggests both the five-star L’Auberge Carmel, a premium boutique hotel just steps away from Carmel Beach, and The Carmel Beach Hotel, which is also close to the water, but has a more casual and homey feel.
And if you’re seeking a small bed & breakfast? “Vagabond’s House Inn feels like staying at a friend’s Carmel cottage,” says Carnazzo. “It’s perfectly located, clean with modern updates, and charming in a way that feels right for this town.”
Where to Start the Day
Stationæry, the restaurant Carnazzo runs with her husband Anthony, is loved by locals for its stellar breakfast options. “I’m biased, but breakfast is our love language,” she says, shouting out the potato pancake—the ingredients of which change each season—as a favorite menu item. “We intend for daytime dining to feel just as special as an evening meal out.”
Galvin is also a fan of the hot spot, and says it’s the best place to buy coffee in town. But she adds Mad Dogs and Englishmen is a close second choice for her caffeine fix. Located within a specialty bike shop, it has a relaxed vibe and offers fantastic people watching.
Where to Eat
Carmel-by-the-Sea is something of a food town, so your quandary will be less about finding a good place to eat than choosing between many excellent options. For lunch, Galvin suggests European-style bistro La Bicyclette for wood-fired pizza, or the more laid-back Carmel Belle for soups, salads, and sandwiches. If you have time and the weather is nice, follow Carnazzo’s advice: “Grab some cheese from The Cheese Shop [in the shopping plaza in town] and have it on the beach with a bottle of wine.”
Come dinnertime, Cogley’s locally sourced Michelin star tasting menu at Aubergine is sure to impress. Since each meal is a multicourse experience drawn out over a few hours, save it for one special evening during your stay. As for the other nights? Carnazzo says that Akaoni boasts “the best sushi in town,” and that Casanova exudes “quintessential Carmel romance,” making it an ideal date-night spot.
If you can make the drive, Carnazzo enthusiastically suggests forging the 45-minute commute to Solstice at The Village in Big Sur. “Chef Tim and his team cook over open flame, the space is beautifully designed, and every detail gives your eye something to marvel at,” she says. “It feels like a memory the moment you sit down. Order the Koda Farms heirloom rice and egg dish!”
Where to Drink
According to Cogley, the cozy bar at L’Auberge Carmel is one of the “best-kept secrets” in town. He also loves grabbing a drink at Chez Noir, which is also a go-to for both Carnazzo (she usually orders a sour) and Galvin. “Get a coveted seat outside on the patio for cocktails and small plates,” Galvin adds. For a more casual bar scene, Carnazzo loves Bud’s at La Playa. “Come in whatever you wore all day or dress up if you feel like it—both [ways fit the venue,]” she says. “It’s also where all the cool moms summit midweek.”
Carmel-by-the-Sea also happens to be rife with niche wine shops selling bottles produced via California grapes. Galvin says her top picks are Dawn’s Dream Winery and Caraccioli Cellars, and that Nielson Bros Market has a nice selection of different labels overall with a knowledgeable staff.
Where to Shop
Label lovers will delight in Galvin’s pre-owned designer luxury boutique, Foxy Couture, which carries secondhand treasures from Dior, Chanel, and Celine. “We curate thoughtfully and offer a personal shopping experience,” she says, noting that there’s also an incredible men’s vintage shop—for both clothing and records—down the street called Wally’s. A few of her other favorite fashion haunts: Augustina’s (high-end womenswear), Visvim (craft-focused Japanese menswear), and Carmel Surf Shop (California-casual staples).
Wally’s Lookbook
If you’re seeking homewares, Carnazzo recommends Lucy Michel Pottery. “She’s new-ish to town via L.A., and wildly talented, and funny,” she says. “Her ceramics make the loveliest souvenirs.”
There are also plenty of unique gifts at House of Cardoon, which carries everything from objects d’art to quirky fashion accessories. Another truly unique keepsake can be found at Pat Areias, who makes custom leather belts and jewelry. “You can pick out a sterling silver buckle and belt from a true local legend,” she says.
Where to Enjoy the Outdoors
All our insiders agree: Carmel-by-the-Sea is best enjoyed on foot, wherever you choose to do it. For Carnazzo, that often means meandering through neighborhoods of storybook homes, all of which are bestowed with cute names, like “Hobbit House” and “The Sandbox,” instead of house numbers (mail is delivered to designated P.O. boxes in town). “I love walking or jogging the streets, picking out my favorite homes, taking note of design features, and dreaming about what I would pick if I had my choice,” she says.
If you’re looking for a proper hike, Cogley says Point Lobos has some stunning sights. “It is truly special and has a great hiking loop with unforgettable views,” he raves. It can, however, also get quite crowded—so if you’re looking for a more chill atmosphere, Carnazzo says you should pivot to Garrapata at the edge of Big Sur.
World Heritage site of Point Lobos State Park in Carmel-by-the-Sea
“My husband Anthony regularly hikes this [area] to watch the sunrise,” she says. She also stands by the coastline at Ribera Beach as another lovely spot for a stroll. “It’s a beautiful, flat, family-friendly trail with views that feel cinematic in any season.”
When
Carmel-by-the-Sea has fairly temperate weather year-round, so the best time to visit is totally up to personal preference. For Cogley, it’s January due to “less people, great breezes, nice waves, and the best sunsets of the year.” Carnazzo, however, prefers October—that is when both fog and crowds are at a minimum. “Spring is a close second,” she admits. “It’s when everything blooms and the town feels freshly washed.”
Galvin, on the other hand, notes that August is when the town comes alive for Monterey Car Week—and it marks the beginning of the area’s best forecasts, which tend to last through late November. So there’s no wrong time to plan your trip, although you might consider that coastal fog is thickest in late spring.
Why
The beauty of this place lies in its creative spirit and small-town ethos. “The entire Monterey Peninsula down to Big Sur is stunning, but Carmel-by-the-Sea has an extra layer of magic,” says Galvin. “The unspoiled, white-sand beaches; tide pools; hidden passageways; whimsical cottages; incredible restaurants; art galleries; and luxury boutiques all create a coastal village unlike anywhere else.”
Cardazzo echoes this sentiment by underscoring the slower pace of life in the region. “You can walk everywhere, and strangers talk to you on sidewalks—everything here moves at half speed, in the best way,” she says. The town’s absence of big box stores, plus the proximity to stunning ocean views are key elements of its charm. “It’s a place you come to remember that doing less can feel really good.”
