The Insider’s Guide to Marfa

Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!

Who

An enigmatic gem hidden in the Chihuahuan Desert in Far West Texas, dusty Marfa is home to fewer than 2,000 residents but boasts major art-world draw—thanks in no small part to the influence and legacy of minimalist icon Donald Judd. The location is riddled with dichotomies and mysteries, including the elusive optical phenomenon known as the Marfa Lights. To help make sense of the so-called “Marfa mystique,” we got insight from six local experts: Jacqueline Del Olmo, aesthetician, DJ and owner of Mira Marfa Skin Artistry & Wellness Boutique; Douglas Friedman, photographer; Sarah Madero, West Texas landscape restoration and garden care specialist; Vance Knowles, creative director of Ballroom Marfa; and Michael Serva and Hannah Bailey, James Beard Award-nominated chef and owner-operator of Bordo: Fine Italian Goods, respectively.

What

What to Bring

At an elevation of 4,830 feet, temperatures in Marfa can swing considerably from day to night, making packing a bit of a conundrum. Among the necessities our experts agree on: sunscreen, moisturizer, hiking shoes, water, a good book, and a big hat to protect you from the unforgiving desert sky. “I would recommend overpacking looks for the trip,” Friedman says. “You never know who you will bump into or where you might be invited.” Similarly alluding to Marfa’s unpredictable spirit, Del Olmo encourages visitors to pack a sense of adventure. “Marfa is a very small, very beautiful town, and it reveals itself best when you leave your agenda at the door and let things unfold naturally.”

What to Leave Behind

Despite its walkability, Marfa’s uneven terrain doesn’t loan itself to fanciful footwear.“High heels will definitely make you stick out, but I’m all for it,” Madero says. “As long as you have supportive friends that will help you get off the gravel.” Friedman concurs. “Marfa is more about ‘doing’ than ‘don’t-ing.’ I’ve seen women (and some men) in four-inch heels walking across the high desert in the rubble and dust,” he says. As for the general dress code, Del Olmo suggests resisting the urge to dress the part. “There’s an ease to wearing white in the desert, but big floppy hats and long, flowing bohemian dresses tend to stick out more than blend in,” she says. “If you want to embrace the look, wait until you arrive and buy a hat at Among My Souvenirs. That way, you’re supporting the small, local community you came to experience.” Echoing Del Olmo’s sartorial advice, Bailey warns, “The town knows who all the real cowboys are, so you’ll stick out if you dress up like one.”

What to Keep in Mind

“Release all expectations,” Madero says. “Especially if the town is busy, expect food to run out and places to be closed. … Patience is key.” Friedman echoes the sentiment, adding: “Respect the pace of life here. It’s slower than a big city. Don’t expect things to be rushed or hurried.” Although walking is the norm, Del Olmo recommends hopping on a bicycle if the opportunity arises. “If you have the chance to borrow or rent a bike, take it,” she says. “It’s the best way to see Marfa.”

Where

Where to Stay

Although artfully appointed vacation rentals abound, Marfa’s hotels reflect the town’s vibe, and run the gamut from historic to contemporary. A local treasure, The Hotel Paisano opened in 1930 and famously housed James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor, and Rock Hudson during the filming of the 1956 ranching epic Giant. “Hotel Paisano is still my favorite,” Knowles says. “It’s like Chateau Marmont circa 1999—the best bones without the fineries.” Bailey agrees. “I love staying in the James Dean suite at the Paisano for the history and nostalgia dripping off the leather chairs,” she says.

Another favorite with vintage appeal, The Thunderbird is a midcentury hotel reimagined by the esteemed Texas architecture firm Lake Flato. Perhaps the poshest option in town, the Hotel Saint George nods to Donald Judd’s boxy, minimalist aesthetics while also catering to Marfa’s worldly travelers.

“The Saint George has a beautiful pool, excellent cocktails, and great lunch and dinner menus,” Madero says.

Where to Start the Day

“We don’t have a bad coffee shop,” Serva says. “I recommend visiting them all. Mutual Friends feels like being at home, Coyote Coffee feels like the world’s best Wild West gas station, and Bitter Sugar has baked goods and nerdy vibes.”

Del Olmo also points visitors toward Mutual Friends, which conveniently transforms into Alta Marfa wine bar on weekend evenings. “It’s female-owned, Mexican American-owned, and home to the best coffee program in town,” she adds. “They also host a lively pop-up scene, with rotating vendors like Dirty Water Bagels, which is a new local favorite.”

Where to Eat

“When I first moved to Marfa a decade ago, there were precious few places to eat,” Friedman recalls. “Now the town is ripe with choice. My number-one spot is the Capri Marfa. If you’re lucky enough to be in town when it’s open with a roster of guest chefs, you won’t be disappointed. And, of course, Cochineal, a James Beard Award-nominated spot with incredible tasting menus by chef-owner Alexandra Gates.”

Bailey and Serva’s Italian concept Bordo also gets a unanimous thumbs up. “They make the best sandwiches and homemade pastas and gelatos,” Friedman continues. Beyond the food, Del Olmo values the energy the duo brings to Marfa: “personal, rooted, and full of creative energy.”

Both Knowles and Madero count Margaret’s in the historic Brite Building high on their lists. “Margaret’s has a romantic vibe, the service is great and the food is delicious,” Madero says. “The spaghetti Bolognese and tuna melt will always have my heart, and they have a great assortment of wine.”

As for our restaurateur experts, Serva seeks out pitmaster Mark Scott’s barbecue pop-up Sawtooth Projects while Bailey sings the praises of the Anthony Bourdain-approved Mexican joint Marfa Burrito. “Marfa Burrito and Ramona Tejada and her family will someday be in the Smithsonian,” Bailey says. “This special place feels more like visiting a holy shrine to hospitality than a restaurant. And her asado burrito is unmatched.”

Where to Shop

Niche and eclectic with a strong focus on Marfa creatives and handcrafted products, the local retail landscape encompasses everything from a homegrown furniture gallery to an expertly curated liquor store. “Garza Marfa is more than just furniture,” Knowles says. “Jamey Garza is an extremely talented painter, illustrator, architect, builder, craftsman, and furniture designer and his partner Constance Holt is an artist and designer who curated the collections at Barneys in Beverly Hills years ago.” Our other experts are equally impressed with Garza Marfa, with Friedman commending the store on its “insanely well-curated collection of home goods” and Del Olmo considering it “the perfect spot to find a thoughtful, beautiful gift.”

Situated in a decommissioned gas station, Cactus Liquors scores high marks thanks to its signature blend of spirits, native plants, fresh flowers, and garden supplies. “It’s the only liquor store I’ve ever genuinely wanted to hang out in,” Del Olmo says. “It’s a hub of community spirit and one of the best spots in town.”

One of Madero’s favorites is Moonlight Gemstones, a rock shop specializing in West Texas agates and silver jewelry. If you arrive in town without a book to devour, the beloved stores Stop & Read Books and Marfa Book Company have you covered.

Where to Look at Art

Marfa’s transformation into the art-world destination it is today began in 1973, when Donald Judd started snapping up properties to showcase his own work alongside the work of his contemporaries like Dan Flavin and Carl Andre. In 1986, Judd purchased a former military base and transformed it into The Chinati Foundation, an indoor/outdoor museum dedicated to large-scale sculptural installations. Only accessible by guided tour, Chinati is complemented by the Judd Foundation, a separate entity that encompasses the artist’s former home and studio along with several other buildings downtown. “The Chinati and Judd foundations are insane, and your brain can only handle one per day,” Friedman warns.

Knowles suggests that, “If you only have one day, you should see The Block at Judd Foundation. You learn more and see more in that concentrated area than anywhere else in Marfa. It’s a peek behind the curtain of what made Donald Judd so interesting and admired. And the art on view is an embarrassment of riches. … There’s also an interesting contrast between the independently run Marfa galleries and the pedigree of Galerie Max Hetzler’s local outpost and Christopher Wool’s long-running exhibition See Stop Run West Texas in the Brite Building.”

Established in 2003 and housed in a 1920s-era building, Ballroom Marfa is behind some of the most adventurous arts programming in town, including world-class exhibitions and concerts, and public artworks like the Beyoncé-approved roadside attraction Prada Marfa. Part art gallery, part shop, Buck Johnston and Camp Bosworth’s amusingly titled Wrong Marfa is a quirky hybrid that arguably couldn’t exist anywhere else. And Del Olmo champions Gensco, an independent gallery Knowles operates out of his backyard as a platform for local artists such as Meghan Gerety, Harry Crofton, and Jean Goehring. “I love evenings at Gensco,” she says. “You can enjoy the work under shady trees with a cold beer from the community cooler.”

Where to Unwind

Specializing in herbal and non-invasive treatments, Del Olmo’s spa Mira Marfa is a trusted source for facials, massages, and acupuncture in the high desert. “Mira Marfa is the wellness spot,” Serva says. “It’s the best in the state, perhaps the country.”

When there’s time for a relaxing getaway, Del Olmo herself heads for Chinati Hot Springs. “It’s my favorite escape,” she says of the desert oasis and its soothing mineral springs. “It’s about a 50-mile drive down Pinto Canyon, one of the most magical and secluded roads in West Texas.”

Where to Get Some Fresh Air

Once you’ve made it all the way to hard-to-reach Marfa, it’s a bit of a no-brainer to make the 100-mile trip to Big Bend National Park—a natural wonder offering hiking, camping, river rafting, horseback riding, and spectacular views of the Chisos Mountains.

For slightly shorter excursions, our experts take Ranch Road 2810 out of town until it gives way to Pinto Canyon Road, a scenic stretch many consider among the most stunning drives in Texas. “Cycling out there is meditative and peaceful,” Del Olmo says. “If you don’t have hours to spare, you can still drive about 27 miles down during sunset. Bring a bottle of wine from Cactus Liquors, some friends, and watch one of the most breathtaking sunsets in West Texas.” Knowles favors the stretch of the River Road connecting Presidio and Terlingua. “It’s epic and meanders along the Rio Grande,” he says.

Stargazers will want to take advantage of some of the nation’s darkest skies at McDonald Observatory in Fort Davis, which hosts frequent outdoor “Star Parties” with constellation tours and telescope viewing.

Where to Have a Drink and Stay Up Late

Despite a social calendar peppered with openings, concerts, and arty events, Marfa isn’t a late-night town. Most of its beloved watering holes close up shop by midnight (or 1 AM on Saturdays). Formerly known as the Lost Horse Saloon, the Wild Mare gets Friedman’s vote as “the sleaziest and coolest dive bar in West Texas.” Madero also approves. “If you want a fun, rowdy dive bar, the Wild Mare is the spot,” she says. “They have a good variety of live music, pool tables, dogs off leashes, and bad-ass bartenders. Planet Marfa is also a great local hot spot with live music, bar food, and ring toss. This would be the place if you’re tied to kids or a big family.”

For a more refined option, she recommends Otherside Marfa, describing it as “a sexy, low-lit cocktail bar with great service.”

When

With a climate that’s milder than other destinations in Texas, Marfa beckons year-round but sees major influxes during spring and fall. Each October, Marfa welcomes droves for annual events such as Chinati Weekend (October 10-12) and the Flying Island music festival (October 23-26).

Del Olmo also recommends experiencing Marfa in the fall. “For the best mix of weather and events, come in September or October when the town is alive with art, music, and community gatherings,” she says.

Why

The diverse creative community, vast landscape, and relaxed pace make Marfa a magnetic place. “Marfa has some serious magic that got its hooks into me in 2011 and I have not looked back since,” Friedman says. “In Marfa, you can shape your own experience,” Del Olmo adds. “If you’re seeking solitude and reflection, you’ll find it. If you’re looking for adventure, that’s here too.” Madero also considers Marfa a place with something for everyone. “Whether you are a nature, history, food, fashion, or art person—or just want to simply relax—it’s worth a visit. I guarantee it’s nothing like you’ve ever seen. … Go sit at the bar and hang with a local … or get abducted by the Marfa lights — they’re real.” Bailey also sums the Marfa mystique nicely: “Marfa is a bath of vistas, distance, silence, and skies. It’s for anyone looking to get lost for a minute. And these days, I think we are all overdue for an unplug.”