Color Forms

Eye shadow, no matter how dramatic, is generally a Mark Rothko–esque situation: hazy bands of complementary shades smudged and blended into an ombré cloud. But this season’s runways saw a new take on loud lids. At shows like Cushnie et Ochs, Zero + Maria Cornejo, and Monique Lhuillier, makeup artists embraced another hallmark of 20th-century abstraction—the color block. “I love makeup that’s full of contrast,” says Jeanine Lobell, who created the look seen here using Dior 5 Couleurs Exubérante Eyeshadow, topping it with a hearty glossing of Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream. “It’s kind of punk. I can see Debbie Harry doing a look like this back in her Blondie days.” For a more-sidewalk-than-catwalk version of the trend, Lobell suggests dialing down the drama by skipping the shine. She coated the lids with Nars Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Telesto, then painted Nars Velvet Shadow Stick in Glénan over the outer halves. “The rectangles go against the eye’s curves, but they extend past the corners, which elongates the eye in a really modern way.” For another artful option, try horizontal layers, like the bright stripes seen at left (opt for MAC Eye Shadow in Satellite Dreams and Steamy). And perhaps the most wearable take on the look is a single swath of shadow over an extra-thick stripe of liner (try Lancôme Le Stylo Waterproof in Minuit). “It’s still strong,” Lobell says, “but in its own monochromatic way.” In all cases, there’s just one rule: Resist the urge to blend. “It goes against a makeup artist’s nature, but sometimes stopping a few steps short of completion opens up new possibilities.”

Hair by Peter Gray at Home Agency; Makeup by Jeanine Lobell at Tim Howard Management; Manicure by Honey for Exposure NY; model: Georgia Hilmer at Next Management; Digital Technician: Alex Verron; photography assistants: Eric Hodgman, Jared Christiansen; fashion assistant: Kyle Hayes.