While small gangs of Dior-clad male models roamed the Brooklyn Navy Yard, awaiting the start of the Christian Dior Resort 2015 show, makeup artist Peter Philips was backstage creating the women’s look for his first show as Dior’s creative and image director for makeup. Philips put his own twist on a Dior classic—the black cat eye—by adding a double-winged flick at the corners. “We used matte black shadow on top of liquid eyeliner to set the line, blend the edges, and give it a velvet effect,” said Philips. To help them stand out, Philips highlighted the black wings with touches of white shadow underneath and used a peachy pink shadow on the lids that nearly matched the light blush on the cheeks. The dark and dramatic beauty look, said Phillips, reflected the abundance of black in Raf Simons’ collection.
Almost as noteworthy as the eye makeup was the silky, airbrushed finish of the models’ skin, which came courtesy of Diorskin Star Foundation, due out in September. Thankfully, the black liquid liner Philips used—Dior It-Line Eye-Liner in It-Black—will be available sooner, in June. As for a full makeup collection bearing Philips’ creative stamp, we’ll have to wait for fall 2015.