The Couture Report: Spring 2010

CHRISTIAN DIOR: Galliano opened the show with a strong tailoring statement based on riding jackets and skirts: the former ending in Edwardian peplums, the latter sprouting volume on one side via pleats or swags of fabric caught at the hip. The gesture of sidesaddle riding was evoked with wind-blown lapels and those elegantly off-kilter skirts. Galliano kept elements of tailoring in the halter dresses and tulle jackets in his cocktail segment. Scattered with delicate and frothy embroideries, they were real beauties…. click to continue

GIVENCHY: On Tuesday night, Tisci was still a showman, with Ciara, Kanye West and Stella Tennant summoned to witness the spectacle. The 22 looks the designer sent whisking through the Imperial Salon of the Westin Hotel had their moments — sometimes suave, sometimes a circus. Lara Stone was a vision of Seventies-era Parisian chic in a fluffy, peach feathered bolero fastened with a big gazar bow that trailed over her black Bermudas. The lacquered tuxedos and silk tailcoats that opened the show were distinctive and demonstrated Tisci’s tailoring forte… click to continue

GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVÉ: When Armani takes you to the moon, he goes all the way. A crescent moon served as a backdrop, and the motif reappeared as buttons, brooches, necklaces and evening bags. The fabrics were opalescent, shimmering or sparkling; the colors pale, from ivory and dusty pink to crater black… click to continue