Dior coat and earrings. Beauty note: Make a point with Dior Vernis nail polish in Skyline.

Photographs by Richard Burbridge, Makeup by Peter Philips; Styled by Charlotte Collet; Hair by Holli Smith for R+Co at LGA Management; manicure by Megumi Yamamoto for Chanel; Model: Maartje Verhoef at Women Management; Digital Technician: Kevin Kunstadt; Photography Assistants: Kim Reenberg, Enrico Brunetti, Tyler Nevitt; Fashion Assistant: Scott Taylor; Hair Assistant: Vi Huynh.

The Dior fall runway had its share of brights, whites, and florals, but fashion’s favorite shade—black—dominated, and not just in the clothes. “I kind of used the show as an excuse to push for bolder lip colors,” says Peter Philips, the creative and image director of Christian Dior Makeup. “I asked the labs for yellow, blue, gray—and also black burgundy.” Poison Matte, as the hue is called, is part of the new Rouge Dior lipstick collection, which also includes a pale peach and a bright grape. “I know these are not the colors that make the sales figures,” Philips concedes. “They’re meant to get people to love makeup.” Color us smitten.

Model Maartje Verhoef wears a Dior jacket and earrings. Beauty note: For a soft complexion, try Dior Capture Totale DreamSkin Perfect Skin Cushion.

Photographs by Richard Burbridge, Makeup by Peter Philips; Styled by Charlotte Collet; Hair by Holli Smith for R+Co at LGA Management; manicure by Megumi Yamamoto for Chanel; Model: Maartje Verhoef at Women Management; Digital Technician: Kevin Kunstadt; Photography Assistants: Kim Reenberg, Enrico Brunetti, Tyler Nevitt; Fashion Assistant: Scott Taylor; Hair Assistant: Vi Huynh.

Back in the heyday of grunge and deconstruction, makeup didn’t get much play. “There were these women who would dress in head-to-toe Yohji ­Yamamoto—and a dash of red lipstick,” Philips recalls. “They really stood out.” The makeup maestro revisited that moment with the look here, using Rouge Dior lipstick in Strong Matte and a heavy-handed swipe of mascara. “Funky fat lashes make it contemporary. I love that.”

Get the look with these 10 must-have mascaras here: