John Varvatos Doesn’t Do Hoodies or Athleisure

“It’s the first time I ever named a show, usually I have a loose inspiration, but as the collection evolved I really felt this theme of the urban romantic,” explained designer John Varvatos at the after party following his Spring 2017 collection. By now, Varvatos is an elder statesman of American menswear — much like all his rock ‘n’ roll idols – and for the last three seasons of the fledgling New York Fashion Week: Men’s, it’s been up to him to wrap things up. On Thursday, he did so with panache at The Django, the basement lounge of The Roxy hotel in Tribeca. The collection, aptly named, “Dark Rebel Rider,” featured an array of black and earth toned colored pieces, such as vests, linen moto jackets, and silk neck scarves. “I had this imaginary guy in my mind who was my muse,” continues Varvatos. “It wasn’t all hoodies and athleisure. He still loves things that are handmade, textured, and timeless. Things that have a spirit from the past but are also modern.” While the shoe was limited to industry people and a few celebrities — the ubiquitous Kellan Lutz and Colton Haynes, for instance — the party at Varvatos’ Bowery story was decidedly more democratic, teeming with models, model wranglers and anyone after a free cocktail — “hot nobodies,” as Holly Brubach once called them. Varvatos’ post-show signature is a rock performance, and this year the honor went to Tyler Bryant & The Shakedown, a band currently on tour with the Guns N’ Roses that is also signed to Varvatos’ namesake label, which he founded last year. “The first time I saw them was in their basement and clubs,” Varvatos said. “Now they’re 100,000 people a night.” And at the former CBGB turned boutique.