Orange Crush: How to Master Orange Eyeshadow

October Look of the Month - LOTM

Altuzarra sweater. Beauty note: For barely-there lips, apply MAC Tendertalk Lip Balm in Candy Wrapped.

Photograph by Amy Troost, Styled by Samantha Traina; Hair by Tamara McNaughton for Wella Professionals at Management + Artists; Makeup by Karan Franjola for Chanel at Management + Artists; model: Olivia Jansing at Next Management; Digital Technician: Andrew Katzowitz; photography assistants: Henry Lopez, Javier Villegas; fashion assistant: Taryn Bensky

We’re accustomed to seeing the color orange on cheeks or nails, but at the latest round of the couture shows, it popped up unexpectedly on the eyes. At Maison Margiela, a bright neon was deployed like war paint, while at Jean Paul Gaultier and Schiaparelli, the hues—and their application—were more subtle and sophisticated.

“Orange is a ‘cool girl’ shade, but I’s also chic,” said the makeup artist Karan Franjola, who used Mac Star Trek Trip the Light Fantastic Powder to create the look above in W's November issue. “Not every color can play both sides. “

Franjola applied the shadow with her fingers in an un-precise way, as if the model had done it herself. She also skipped liner and mascara to let the color live on its own.

“Wear it alone, or with mascara. It would look great either way,” she said. “With this color, you can dress it up or dress it down. I don’t think there are any rules with this kind of shade, because it’s so beautiful, it really speaks for itself.”

And can anyone wear this shade? Totally! But…“If you have a reddish complexion, correct it a bit with foundation,” Franjola added.

Of course, orange can stretch in various directions—to a subtler peach or to a more intense copper, but the spectrum remains a surprise when seen on eyelids.

“It’s not surprising that we’re seeing it in couture, because it’s refreshing," Franjola said. "It’s unexpected, but still feels elegant and nice. It’s just daring enough to be different, but safe enough so you won’t end up clownish.”