In 2014, Pookie Burch, 32, and her sister Louisa, 28, introduced Trademark, a ready-to-wear line that charmed the fashion set with its quirky, streamlined aesthetic.
But when their earrings, mules, and totes began to outsell the clothes, they took the hint and devised a grand plan to reinvent Trademark as an accessories brand and closed their New York shop last summer.
Their first collection, which debuts this month, has a vintage vibe but is modern in spirit. It takes cues from sources as disparate as 1960s crafts books, Robert Altman’s 3 Women, and the bright-eyed girls in Garry Winogrand’s photographs. There was also inspiration from personal heroines like Diane Keaton, who inspired the caramel leather Keaton cinch tote, and the anthropologist Jane Goodall, who prompted a leather bucket bag with a chain-link tortoiseshell strap.
Eccentric colorways and materials run rampant: Chartreuse satin mules are modeled after ’50s bedroom slippers, and resin tote bag handles borrow ideas from the Italian architect Gaetano Pesce.
Yet while their references might be studied, the sisters attribute their zest for fashion to their stepmother, the designer Tory Burch. “She was a huge influence on us,” Pookie admits. “But it’s always a combination of things that come together and send you in the right direction.”
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