Proenza Schouler Fall 2015’s Abstract Anarchy

Backstage at Proenza Schouler Fall 2015

Backstage at Proenza Schouler Fall 2015

“The inspiration for Proenza Schouler this season was abstract expressionism,” says makeup artist Diane Kendal, who created severe, bold eyes by swiping MAC’s black Chromacake pigment from the inner corner to the crease and grooming brows with clear gel. Keeping the focus on the eyes, stylist Anthony Turner pulled hair away from the face, creating a clean canvas for the tough leather headbands the models would sport during the show. Without using a brush, Turner created volume and texture in the back by pulling a combination of Bumble and bumble’s Thickening Hairpray, Surf Spray, and Cityswept Finish Spray through the roots and ends with his hands. “It feels quite anarchic. It’s hair with attitude,” he says. To complete the look, manicurist Michelle Saunders painted models’ nails with one of two colors: A custom grey hue made from one thin coat of Essie’s sheer white Allure polish over a coat of black Licorice or a combination of the Ridge Filling Base Coat on top of the beige Au Natural. “It’s almost like a mannequin hand,” she says. “The nail is just an extension of the finger.”