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There should be a pagebreak after this line This season was heavy on upstarts, like Linder, formerly just a boutique; Second/Layer, in its second-ever presentation; and Landlord, in its first. But the exemplars of American Fashion—Calvin, Ralph—have still not bought in, preferring instead to show in Europe. And Public School, on whom the CFDA once seemingly latched the dreams of the entire NYFW: Men’s ecosystem a year ago, have bailed out of the calendar entirely in favor of a completely off-piste show scheme. So, who is left? The schedule was punctuated by youngish labels like John Elliott, Robert Geller, and Ovadia & Sons, while Todd Snyder is what passed for a member of the “old guard,” as WWD referred to him, and Joseph Abboud and John Varvatos as éminences grises.

Cha Cha Matcha

Photo by Katie Thompson. Produced by Biel Parklee.

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The schedule was punctuated by youngish labels like John Elliott, Robert Geller, and Ovadia & Sons, while Todd Snyder is what passed for a member of the “old guard,” as WWD referred to him, and Joseph Abboud and John Varvatos as éminences grises.

There should be a pagebreak after this line The schedule was punctuated by youngish labels like John Elliott, Robert Geller, and Ovadia & Sons, while Todd Snyder is what passed for a member of the “old guard,” as WWD referred to him, and Joseph Abboud and John Varvatos as éminences grises.

The schedule was punctuated by youngish labels like John Elliott, Robert Geller, and Ovadia & Sons, while Todd Snyder is what passed for a member of the “old guard,” as WWD referred to him, and Joseph Abboud and John Varvatos as éminences grises.

An Inside Look at This Year’s Woolmark Prize Nominees

Pyer Moss “Our Land Too.”

Courtesy of Pyer Moss.

Gabriela Hearst “I design for a real woman, alluring and powerful, but there is much action in her life and these clothes are her uniform and armor. A woman who understands her intuition and is aware of her strength. [Italian writer] Oriana Fallaci inspired my collection – she not only was one of the best journalists of our time but also exhibited extraordinary courage and had intuition into the matters that affect the world today. She embodies the values of the woman that inspire me. Having grown up on my family sheep ranch, wool has always been an integral part of my life and knitwear is the cornerstone of my collection. Bringing innovation and dressing the modern woman with such a complete yarn as merino wool, is both a passion and a duty.”

Courtesy of Gabriela Hearst.

Hellessy “24/7 day to night / night to day always on the move”

Courtesy of Hellessy.

Abasi Rosborough “When we found out we were nominated for the Woolmark prize, we began to research the relationship between humans and wool, looking back tens of thousands of years. Our most interesting conversations revolved around this nearly eternal relationship intertwined across history, looking deep into the past and the future, and this inspired our design work.”

Courtesy of Abasi Rosborough.

Second/Layer “Behind the Curtain: Inspired by the challenges and hands behind the development process.”

Courtesy of Second/Layer.

Matiere “Utility meets contemporary luxury.”

Courtesy of Matiere.

Sally LaPointe “The concept is the idea of ‘stripped’. I wanted to present a look that was bold, honest, and stripped of all excess. I documented my everyday surroundings with a Polaroid. These photos, stripped of their context, became the inspiration for fabric development and ultimately the look.”

Courtesy of Sally LaPointe.

Monse “To continue the unlocking of our DNA, we chose a houndstooth print combined with our faithful stripes and a technique we had never developed in a wool before.”

Courtesy of Monse.

Rochambeau “The inspiration for our Woolmark Prize collection is post-9/11 New York City – a surreal moment in our city’s history where tomorrow wasn’t promised. In the aftermath of tragedy a movement of artists, photographers, and graffiti artists emerged using the city as a their creative playground. We took specific reference from the outlaw energy of Dash Snow. Dash arose as the leader of this creative movement – pulling off the boldest tags, inspiring his peers, and pushing stylistic boundaries that posthumously rendered him a fashion icon. Our look is someone who is fearless, confronting death and in his path creating art that would come to define this period. Signature pieces like his biker vest, his face wrapped with a bandana, and often genderless use of layers combine to personify a NYC legend.”

Courtesy of Rochambeau.

Nellie Partow “The Woolmark collection has been inspired by the architecture of both form, as well as the architecture of the human body. As a former competitive boxer, I have always been inspired by the architecture of the human body, which is prevalent in the linear detailing throughout the collection.”

Courtesy of Nellie Partow.
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The schedule was punctuated by youngish labels like John Elliott, Robert Geller, and Ovadia & Sons, while Todd Snyder is what passed for a member of the “old guard,” as WWD referred to him, and Joseph Abboud and John Varvatos as éminences grises.

The schedule was punctuated by youngish labels like John Elliott, Robert Geller, and Ovadia & Sons, while Todd Snyder is what passed for a member of the “old guard,” as WWD referred to him, and Joseph Abboud and John Varvatos as éminences grises.

Gaby Douglas

The schedule was punctuated by youngish labels like John Elliott, Robert Geller, and Ovadia & Sons, while Todd Snyder is what passed for a member of the “old guard,” as WWD referred to him, and Joseph Abboud and John Varvatos as éminences grises.

The schedule was punctuated by youngish labels like John Elliott, Robert Geller, and Ovadia & Sons, while Todd Snyder is what passed for a member of the “old guard,” as WWD referred to him, and Joseph Abboud and John Varvatos as éminences grises.