TRAVEL

The Insider’s Guide to Tulum

Where to eat, drink, stay, and play in the Mexican resort town.

by Jocelyn Silver

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Ever wish you could text the most stylish people in the world to ask them for their lists of things to do in the places they know best? Here are insider travel tips for those who would never be caught dead in a tourist trap. Bon voyage!

Who

The Yucatán Peninsula, in the southeast of Mexico, is a region famously awash with eye-popping treasures, a place where Mayan ruins bump up against crystalline turquoise seas and thick swaths of jungle. There are numerous destinations in the Yucatán that can be described as heavenly—consider the capital, Mérida, with its combination of colonial architecture and hip restaurants, or the white sand beaches of Isla Holbox. Just south of Cancún, on the Riviera Maya, is Tulum, a town that beckons vacationers from all around the world. Located on a bluff on the Caribbean Sea, Tulum features spectacular nature, from its beaches and its cenotes (freshwater sinkholes revered by the Maya) to its wildlife. Plus, there are world-class hotels, some of the best-preserved coastal ruins in Mexico, and a famous nightlife scene.

To navigate Tulum, look to Kevin Wendle, founder of Hotel Esencia, a luxurious, design-forward boutique resort that’s currently celebrating its 12th anniversary; Carlos Huber, president and founder of ARQUISTE Parfumeur, a perfume house inspired by architecture; and Brooke Wise, art curator and jet-setter.

What

What to Pack

Wendle says that all you really need in Tulum is “a bathing suit and a smile.” Similarly, Wise suggests packing just a few items: “flats that make you want to dance,” a day-to-night tote, “chic bug spray” from Coqui Coqui, a “bikini that matches your sunset swim,” and Dr. Jart’s Every Sun Day SPF 50+ for face.

What to Keep in Mind

While Tulum International Airport opened in 2023, most flights from the U.S. aren’t direct. If you’d rather skip the connection, fly to Cancún International Airport, which is about an hour and a half drive away. (There are buses, shuttles, and car rental options at the airport.) Tulum itself is easy to navigate without a vehicle—there’s a plethora of bike and taxi options.

When

When to Visit

Wendle recommends visiting between October and March, when the summer humidity has ebbed. “The end of October is magnificent, and November is my favorite month of all because the beach is absolutely perfectly clear—not a stitch of seaweed.” (Between April and October, Tulum’s beaches can be threatened by an influx of sargassum seaweed.) While September signals the start of the rainy season, it’s also the month visitors can watch sea turtles being born on the beach.

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Where

Where to Stay

Hotel Esencia, located thirty minutes outside of Tulum proper, began as the 20th-century holiday home of the Italian duchess Rosa de Ferrari. It’s every bit as luxurious as its history suggests. The property features elegant interiors (including furniture by Pierre Jeanneret and Charlotte Perriand), a priceless art collection (including Picassos, Boteros, and Warhols), three restaurants, a spa above a cenote, a speakeasy designed by renowned architect Giancarlo Valle, and uniquely decorated suites (you won’t find the same art in any two rooms) with private plunge pools. That’s all on one of the last stretches of undeveloped coastline in the Riviera Maya. It’s become a popular destination for the fashion world—everyone from Bella Hadid and Alexa Chung to Jason Wu, who designed a capsule collection for the hotel, has visited.

“You see the fauna and foliage of the jungle, but at the same time, you're right there on the best beach,” says Wendle. “We have wild peacocks and spider monkeys. There's a lagoon right adjacent to our property, where you'll find some manatees that are not captive. You can walk over there and jump in with them.”

For a serene stay next to the Sian Ka’an nature preserve, there’s Olas Tulum, an eight-suite property. Or, on Tulum Beach, there’s Nômade Tulum, a 100-room hotel that still feels lush and intimate. Stay in one of their treehouse suites, or in a room with a private pool. Lula Seaside Boutique Hotel has just 19 rooms and focuses on relaxation and wellness.

Where to Eat

Tulum’s most acclaimed restaurant is Hartwood, an environmentally conscious, farm-to-table joint where everything is prepared on a grill or in a wood-burning oven. Ingredients are locally sourced, and chef Eric Werner changes the menu daily, serving dishes like pulpo asado with roasted potatoes and chile xcatik (a pepper native to the Yucatán). Nearby, Arca is another popular fine dining destination that uses local ingredients. Think scallop crudo with smashed pumpkin seeds.

For something more casual, check out Bipolar Café, an all-day restaurant that has freshly-baked focaccia and a listening bar, where patrons can enjoy curated vinyl records. For traditional Mexican food, grab dinner at Cetli, which is beautifully decorated with wooden crosses, or get tacos at Antojitos La Chiapaneca. For a healthy lunch, Wise recommends the restaurant at the Amansala Yoga Resort, which serves grilled fish and ceviche alongside Thai curries and spring rolls.

Where to Drink

Tulum is globally recognized as a nightlife destination. Wise recommends hitting Gitano Jungle, an open-air club full of pink neon lights and palm trees. “Last time I was there it poured and we danced all night in the rain under the disco ball,” she says. “It was a ton of fun.”

There are many raucous beach clubs, such as the famous moonlit parties at Papaya Beach Club. Partiers are also drawn to the bars at the Nômade hotel, the beachside La Popular, and the Mediterranean-inspired Macondo. For more casual cocktails, visit La Guarida, an indoor-outdoor café and bar with a bohemian feel. And for those who value good interior design, the speakeasy at Hotel Esencia, with its show-stopping frescoes of local wildlife, cannot be beat.

Where to Go to the Beach

While most hotels are on white sand beaches, there’s plenty more to explore. Playas Ruinas offers a wholly unique experience: a beach day with ancient Mayan ruins. There aren’t a ton of waves in general in Tulum, but gentle waters make swimming a breeze.

Playas Ruinas

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Where to Sightsee

Tulum offers experiences away from the shore, too. “For me, the highlight of the area is really the Mayan culture,” says Wendle. Visit the easily accessible Mayan ruins Zona Arqueológica de Tulum and El Castillo, a temple atop ocean cliffs. Or, take a two-hour drive to the ancient city of Chichén Itzá to marvel at its famed step pyramid. Wendle also recommends the nature preserve Sian Ka’an. “You can float through the ancient Mayan trade routes with maybe an occasional crocodile.”

You can’t leave the Yucatán without swimming in a cenote. Head to Dos Ojos, which is a little less than thirty minutes outside of Tulum.

Where to Shop

The best shops in Tulum sell clothes and crafts you can’t find anywhere else. World by Hand, a boutique dedicated to handmade works, offers throw pillows hand-painted in Mali and rugs woven in Peru. At La Troupe, you’ll find delicate resort wear handcrafted in Mexico. And don’t miss Hotel Esencia’s in-house boutique, Retrobottega, which features clothes, beauty products, and home goods, including Mexican brands like Coqui Coqui and Kuu jewelry. (The store is run by Juan Carlos Gutierrez, the co-founder of the new clothing brand Mesa Matta, which produces knits and accessories made by women in Chiapas.) Huber’s perfumes, which are often inspired by Mexican architecture, can be found in Retrobottega, too.

Huber’s perfumes, many of which are directly inspired by places in Mexico, found a perfect home at Retrobottega, the TK WHAT IS IT DESCRIBE THE STORE?. Huber, a former architect who hails from Mexico City, infused his line with memories of Mexico. “When I started the brand, I had an idea of like, Could we recreate the smell of something in the past based on research? And so that's how I started, I came up with a concept for Arquiste and that's why all our fragrances reference different places in time and different countries, but especially Mexico.”

Why

The turquoise water is enough of a reason to book a flight.

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