At Burberry, Expressive Outerwear for Extreme Temperatures
Burberry’s fall 2024 show kicked off in London with an Amy Winehouse-led soundtrack that epitomized creative director Daniel Lee’s penchant for classic English style—with the slightest blink-and-you’ll-miss-it hint of quirky detail.
Grounded in a palette of neutral browns, olive greens, and khakis, this collection was all about the outerwear, with a careful eye on accessories. Plaid trench coats were tied in the back, chunky little puffer jackets came with satchel bags, and beige pinstripe suits dominated. Turtlenecks were styled with the hair tucked in, while long maxi skirts and sweaters with chunky, fluffy fringe swayed down the runway. Some other recurring themes: plaid pants and matching scarves, abstract leopard print blouses with draping that also doubled as scarves, and coats with curly fabric details.
Make no mistake—this collection was fully utilitarian in its approach, even when it came to the most over-the-top looks. But the details set these clothes apart: exposed zippers, big furry hood trims, aviator sunglasses, and one very surprising accessory, the umbrella.
Burberry put forth a number of ideas for next season’s bag trends—enormous duffels and shoulder bags that serve as fit-literally-everything carry-alls included. While Amy Winehouse’s Back to Black blasted from the speakers, models Agyness Deyn and Lily Cole carried XL bags, cementing Lee’s hint at the mid 2000s references. The classic checked scarf (another aughts style trope) was piled under coats with weather-ready fabrics. Pops of tartan lined voluminous coats, while leather jackets in black (especially when worn with tartan maxi skirts) looked like the closest thing a modern-day Winehouse would wear.
Toward the end of the show, Naomi Campbell walked the runway in a shaggy, glittering dress that mixed all the shades of the earthy neutral palette into one—almost a near-match to the astroturf runway. But umbrellas and oversize bags aren’t the only “It” accessories Burberry is predicting for fall 2024: the number of scarves worn as hoods in this show were also impactful. Expect to see a revival of Burberry’s more expressive outerwear and that classic check print come next season.
