At Givenchy, Sarah Burton Toys With a Precise Wardrobe
Every season, there are a few shows—sometimes just one!—that are so cohesive, so beautifully executed, the audience can’t help but feel a wave of emotion. Sarah Burton’s latest Givenchy offering was one of these expressive wonders. The collection gave us a cornucopia of jewel hues in lush satins and silks, structured leather trousers, and impeccably tailored suiting that bordered on experimental while standing firmly in the land of the wearable. These are garments for grown-up women, women who are powerful, put together, and perhaps even subversive in their own subtle, secure ways. “[I wanted to create] a wardrobe to bring precision and simplicity to dressing as we speed through the multiple perspectives and perpetual motion of all our lives,” wrote Burton in the show notes. The collection certainly carried this assertive vision.
Some highlights include: sensual colorblocked dresses with cutout bralettes; architectural shirting with leather hot shorts so short they could be mistaken for briefs; and exquisite fringed gowns inspired by Alexander Calder’s suspended circus figures. The writer Constance Debré walked in an ultra slim-fit suit, very much matching her own style, and a metal bar earring. Burton mentioned she worked with the models to make sure they felt connected to their looks—it shows. Leather was a focus, as were experimentations in tailoring, like a pinstriped blazer with the sleeves removed then pinned over the chest like a form of protection.
We can’t talk about this show without noting the accessories. Several looks featured crescent moon bags in radiant yellow, deep blue, and white with silver plating holding the interior. The shark boot that Riccardo Tisci introduced in fall 2012 was given a zipper in front and styled completely unzipped. Stiletto sandals with heels that curved like a hook and exposed zipper detailing were oh-so-desirable. Necklaces with a pile of large rings stacked seemed to hint at classic fetish codes, a lock-and-key choker in new form.
The final looks leaned towards artful decadence while still maintaining the precision Burton noted. A lush kimono-style coat would make any head turn. So would the beaded number that followed, a red-carpet showstopper if there ever was one.
