Loose and light aren’t two words you’d necessarily associate with a storied leather maison, but they’re the first that come to mind when you take in Hermès’s spring 2027 collection.
Following a sejour in California over the summer for what it billed as the “second chapter” of fall 2026, the French fashion house debuted Nadège Vanhée’s latest ready-to-wear assortment in Paris on Saturday morning. It may have shown much closer to home, but the collection maintained an underlying ease one might associate with West Coast living—in the sheer knit dresses and skirts, the freewheeling car wash-wiper fringe hems on coats, the long sleeves scrunched up above the elbow just so, the bandeau tops styled with tailored trousers and micro shorts alike.
The color palette for the season ripened as the collection progressed. Starting with creamy whites and icy blues, Vanhée then incorporated camel with touches of black and reddish-brown before expanding into terra-cotta, chocolate, and sand. A series of slate gray, black, and dark brown looks set up an explosion of color: bright yellow, red, and orange, reminiscent of a Californian sunset.
There was a playful element of discovery in the styling. Many of the looks were layered, suggesting there was more to see by peeling each piece off. Others boasted zippers that could be opened up to create a flare on a jacket, drop a sleeve, or lower a neckline or hem. The cutouts on a few key pieces made for some surprising skin reveals.
Vanhée’s designs are always tactile in nature, highlighting the fine materials and skills of the atelier. “The hand connects us, you know?” she told W earlier this year. Her way to honor the craftsmanship of the house, she explained, was “[anchored] to the work by hand.” For spring, different materialities were in conversation with one another: mesh knits with technical jackets and suede overcoats, leather belts over sheer silky dresses, pleated scarves tied over bandeau tops.
Continuing a trend we’ve seen at other Paris Fashion Week shows, the bags on offer existed on the ends of a size spectrum: either oversize and roomy, or slim and structured. The footwear centered two styles: luscious boots in brown suede and smooth black leather that rise up the calf, and T-strap leather sandals in an array of browns and black.
Despite having led womenswear at the brand for over a decade, Vanhée has continuously proven her understanding of what’s desirable at the moment while pushing a heritage brand forward. And there are still new layers to discover from her Hermès—namely, her haute couture debut, slated for the top of the year.
