Miu Miu’s Spring 2027 Sportswear Comes With Bikinis and Wrinkled Skirts

No one can seamlessly mix quirky vintage codes with a proposed vision for the future like Miuccia Prada. The designer only bolstered that case for herself today in Paris, where the usual Palais d’Iéna venue for her Miu Miu spring 2027 show had been bathed royal purple, with chocolate-brown seats transformed into makeshift bleachers. The collection, titled “Here and Now,” featured Olivia Colman, Igby Rigney, Emma Corrin, and Gigi Hadid walking in the show. Deep, beloved house codes were put on display: retro prints, extreme statement-making skirts, minimal sportswear in bright colors, and shrunken 1960s-inspired bejeweled silk minidresses and sporty bra tops covered in opulent sprays of crystals. Even if for only a fleeting moment, it felt like the 2010s era of maximalism so well-loved by house fans was back at Miu Miu.

“It was the idea of being in the moment, in the time, and seeing everybody dressing in sportswear, and then I thought to lift up the sport; to bring elegance to the sport,” Miuccia Prada said immediately after the show. The show notes mentioned that “recontextualization comes from elements of beauty, refinement, and elegance, applied to the clothing items that define a quotidian wardrobe of now,” and the “process of heightening, elevation, improvement.” In other words: Miu Miu took the homogenous, everyday dressing—sports bras, gym shorts, sweater vests, and office-approved wool skirt suits—and added her own subversive twists.

T-shirts came cut across the torso with contrasting collars in those signature off-kilter colors, like tangerine orange and (yet again) royal purple. Skirt suits were transformed with python-like textures. Bags were big and hulking; modified track pants paired with wool blazers further brought home the theme of contrasts. Polka-dot halter tops looked like they were silk scarves tied around the body. Even more interesting was the wrinkled, worn effect that gave the collection a real-world feel. Suede was intentionally crackled, and mini dresses (again with those laces at the front) looked like they were layered over casual swimsuits with intentional wrinkles.

Likewise, skirts were dropped low and designed with pattern-contrasting waistband and shoelace-like bows at the center. Those humble strings were seen throughout the collection, tied around the waist with low-cut, tight wool pants and shorts and also lacing up the front of jeans created with vintage upcycled Wranglers. “I fell in love with the stringing,” Mrs. Prada explained post-show. Those laces appeared yet again on New Balance sneakers (the brand has collaborated with the sports label to rework the RC150 racing shoe). Much like the sports bra or a pair of jeans, a shoelace is something universal and homogeneous in fashion. It was the thread that tied the whole idea of elevated everyday together.