FASHION

Photos: King Charles

An often overlooked fashion genius, Charles James is back in the spotlight.

by Daphne Merkin

Charles James
1

Inscribed photograph of Charles James holding a dress lining, n.d. Menil Archives, The Menil Collection, Houston Courtesy of Charles B.H. James and Louise D.B. James.

2

A draped James gown from 1955. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009.

3

A 1950 show. Courtesy of the Menil Archives, Houston/Charles James Jr. and Louise James.

4

Antonio Lopez’s illustration of a 1968 look. Courtesy of Galerie Chariau-Bartsch.

5

A 1954 “butterfly” gown. Courtesy of Getty Images.

6

A ball gown from 1949–1950. Courtesy of the Chicago History Museum.

7

James, with models at a 1950 show. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art; © Bettmann/Corbis.

8

A 1973 illustration by Lopez. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, photograph by John Rawlings, Rawlings/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive.

9

A 1951 evening gown. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

10

A fitting in 1948. Courtesy of Getty Images.

11

A 1956 sheath dress and suit. Courtesy of the Chicago History Museum.

12

A “four leaf clover” evening dress from 1953. Courtesy of Art Resource.

13

Austine Hearst in the same gown. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art; photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast.

14

Babe Paley in a crimson James gown, 1950. Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Elizabeth Fairall, 1953.