SCHOOLED

How to Wear Fashion’s Favorite Cult Labels Like a Uniform

by Karin Nelson

Given fashion’s finicky nature, and the trends and talents that come and go, there is something to be said for labels that inspire absolute loyalty from their fervent fan bases. These four brands—the energetic, cool Undercover, the low-key luxe The Row, the arty Dries Van Noten and the experimental Junya Watanabe—inspire an especially devoted following. You might even say that being an acolyte of one of these brands is akin to adopting a kind of learned worldview, which is why students from London’s most talented, smartest schools have become models for their fashion.

1Undercover

Photograph by Sam Rock; Styled by Sara Moonves.

The creative, playful, intelligent students of the King Alfred School, in London, exemplify the Japanese designer Jun Takahashi’s approach to fashion. Founded in 1990 and immediately popularized by the Tokyo youth culture, Undercover has since evolved into a global, high-end label, but it hasn’t lost an ounce of cool. As its motto makes clear: “We make noise, not clothes.”

All clothing and accessories Undercover.

2The Row

Photograph by Sam Rock; Styled by Sara Moonves.

When Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen launched their label in 2006, it was at the height of their celebrity. Yet somehow they managed to form one of fashion’s most beautifully discreet brands. Much like the music of London’s Deep Throat Choir, shown here, the Row is serene, spiritual, sublime-sartorial fodder for an entire class of low-key, exquisitely elegant women.

Models wear the Row clothing, shoes, and boots; Falke tights. Choir members wear Ashington Ceremonial Gowns choir gowns; custom-made bibs; shoes by Church’s and Grenson. Beauty note: Join the order. Garnier Fructis Style Pure Clean Styling Gel keeps every hair in place with long-lasting hold.

3The Row

Photograph by Sam Rock; Styled by Sara Moonves.

Models wear the Row clothing, shoes, and boots; Falke tights. Choir members wear Ashington Ceremonial Gowns choir gowns; custom-made bibs; shoes by Church’s and Grenson.

4Dries Van Noten

Photograph by Sam Rock; Styled by Sara Moonves.

For the past three decades, Dries Van Noten has tended to his business much the way he does his magnificent gardens in Belgium: quietly, carefully, and with absolute adoration. And what do you know? It has bloomed into a richly hued and intoxicatingly romantic label that causes both men and women to swoon.

Models wear Dries Van Noten clothing.

5Junya Watanabe

Photograph by Sam Rock; Styled by Sara Moonves. Hair by James Pecis for Oribe Hair Care at Bryant Artists; Makeup by Lauren Parsons at Art Partner. Set design by Andrew Tomlinson at Streeters. Produced by Laura Holmes Production; Casting by Laura Holmes Production; Casting: Undercover spread: Students of The King Alfred School in London; The Row spread: Deep Throat Choir, Erin O’Connor at Heroes, Vivien Solari at IMG; Junya Watanabe spread: University College London Biochemical Engineers, Erin O’Connor at Heroes, Vivien Solari at IMG. Photography Assistants: Jack Symes, Alessandro Tranchini; Fashion Assistants: Allia Alliata, Angus McEvoy, Angelique de Raffaele; Tailor: Ian Hundley.

What do Junya Watanabe and these scientists from University London College have in common? An intense curiosity toward their fields of study—in the Japanese designer’s case, everyday garments and their many possible punk mutations. Watanabe’s experimental and wildly influential work has spawned an ardent fan base—see the Facebook group Junya Watanabe World—that analyzes his every move.

Models wear Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons dresses, leggings, and socks; Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons x Buffalo sneakers.