The Best Looks From the Men’s Fall 2020 Shows
Here’s further proof that it is always fashion week somewhere: Men’s Fashion Month kicked off in New York earlier this June, followed by London, Pitti Uomo in Florence, Milan, and now Paris. While the Spring 2020 collection calendar features the stalwarts of men’s luxury fashion, like Giorgio Armani, Prada, and Fendi, there is something to be said about the newcomers creating a buzz. First and foremost is Bode’s Emily Bode, who traded New York for a debut at Paris Fashion Week. And at Pitti, Givenchy was the guest of honor this season, with creative director Clare Waight Keller presenting her Spring 2020 men’s collection in Florence for the first time. Throughout the cities and collections, we’ve seen an abundance of great knitwear, 70’s influences, pastels, and tie-dye, and the shoe of choice, the sandal. Also, one trend not to be missed: skin is in. Whether it’s button-down shirting that shows more of the chest, or tops with geometric cut-outs, everyone is baring more on the runway, and on the city streets. For the top looks of the new men’s spring 2020 collections, see below.
Emily Bode brought her eponymous label Bode to Paris, where she held her first runway show on Day 1 of Paris Men’s, straight off of her win at the CFDA Awards. The crochet and patchwork separates, along with workwear staples and her attention to craft, make her a favorite of the emerging labels at fashion week.
There were all the suiting staples one would imagine at Giorgio Armani’s men’s spring 2020 show, along with a good dose of desirable knitwear. A favorite look was this slightly undone plaid double-breasted blazer, perhaps more downtown guy than the traditional Armani suit wearer.
The Fendi menswear collection was created in a delightful palette of earthy neutrals, reminiscent of Silvia Venturini Fendi’s family gardens in the summertime. In addition to collaborating with director-of-the-moment Luca Guadagnino, with whom she’s worked with before on I Am Love, the collection’s highlights included this mossy green look, and a sweater vest that may just usher in the return of that silhouette.
This was Paul Andrew’s first show as the creative director of both men’s and women’s at Ferragamo, a show that brought the house back to its Florentine roots. This season, volumes were slightly oversized, including these pants with cargo pockets that any man would love.
Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller was the guest designer this season at Pitti Uomo in Florence. Her men’s spring 2020 collection did lean into 90’s minimalism, but her recent deep dive into the way men in Seoul dress today led her to work with interesting materials and floral fabric.
Francesco Risso’s spring men’s collection for Marni was chock full of rich yellow, neutral, and blue hues, as was this John Lennon-esque look that walked the runway. Hanging above the models’ heads? A heap of bottles and other trash found in the oceans, meant to draw attention to the looming environmental crisis ahead.
Mrs. Prada brought her spring 2020 men’s collection to Shanghai this season, and it was one of optimism, fun, and pastel color. This tank and shorts combo almost felt like a luxe summer pajama set—roll out of bed and off you go.
Prodigy’s frontman Keith Flint was the inspiration behind Donatella Versace’s latest Versace men’s collection. The two were friends, and the collection—bright, colorful, with the occasional vintage ad print—was a positive way to remember a friend who played his last show in Milan.
Move over sneakers, sandals are all over the runway this season. At Etro, a “strappy” version of the summer staple paired well with the desert-inspired ensemble.
Hawaiian leis are no longer to be worn solely on the shores of the states’ seven islands. Palm Angels’ Francesco Ragazzi included colorful leis on many looks, which were also comprised of re-worked vintage pieces and printed separates, aimed towards those who embrace streetwear.
