New York Fashion Week kicked off with Tom Ford’s spring show, where the likes of Gigi Hadid, Joan Smalls, and Kaia Gerber wore the designer’s latest wares for a crowd that included none other than Tom Hanks and Cardi B. While much has been made of the fluctuating New York show schedule (if you recall, Alexander Wang showed over the summer, but hometown heroes Proenza Schouler and fashion’s favorite designer sisters, Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte, are back), there are still a lot of things to catch this week. Keep an eye out for new debuts from Chris Peters, Jonathan Cohen, and Kate Spade’s Nicola Glass, and get ready to welcome Longchamp and Escada to the calendar as well. More designers than ever are bringing us across the east river to Brooklyn, including Ulla Johnson in Williamsburg, Eckhaus Latta in Bushwick, and Pyer Moss in Weeksville, a historic Brooklyn neighborhood founded by African American freedmen. All to much to keep track of? Not to worry—here’s our guide to the best of the best during New York Fashion Week.
Drawing on his beloved design touchstones, Tom Ford showed a series of red-carpet ready gowns, cocktail numbers, and jacket and pencil skirt looks. Gigi Hadid, Joan Smalls, and Kaia Gerber walked, as Cardi B, Tom Hanks, and Hailee Steinfeld watched from the front row.
In a collection inspired by her own parents and the clothes they wear while traveling, scarf prints and Safari-tinged looks reigned supreme.
For spring, Cohen mashed up quite a few daisy prints for this charming cut-out dress. If you look closely, some of the daisies have petals, and others are missing a few; the designer calls this his “he loves me, he loves me not” print.
After a runway chock full of 90’s neon colors, a denim blazer and skirt combo closed out an all-American everyday-wear inspired collection.
Chris Peters, of Creatures of the Wind, debuted a well-edited collection for his new label, CDLM. For the Celine Girl missing chic pants and a great oversized bag, look no further than the ensemble above.
The contemporary brand is being reimagined as a all-American ready to wear label, with modern denim and great knitwear to boot.
At Kate Spade, a path of glitter spiraled around the show space. It was an ode to the namesake designer, who passed away earlier this year, who was said to have “left a little sparkle everywhere she went.” New creative director Nicola Glass certainly offered up the happy colors the late designer was known for, but also put a modern stamp on the collection through thoughtful bucket bags and more relaxed silhouettes for today’s millennials.
Brandon Maxwell’s collection was very Texas, from the big hair, the colorful hues reminiscent of a Texas sunset, and the fact that every invitee was gifted a pair of Lucchese cowboy boots. While he took inspiration in the women of the 80’s oil boom and the way they power dressed, perhaps the most Texas part of the collection was Maxwell’s show sponsors—many of whom, like the car company Kia, donated vehicles and monetary funds to the Marfa, Texas school system.
The duo behind Monse, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim, introduced menswear for the spring 2019 season. While most of the collection was nautical in theme, one could easily see any devoted Monse girl snapping this reinterpreted rugby shirt up for herself.
Despite sheets of rain hampering guests’ progress as they worked their way around a cemetery to find their soaked seats (it must be noted that dear show staff very calmly wiped down each chair for their guests before they sat), Rodarte overcame the odds for a triumphant return to New York Fashion Week after a two year hiatus. One might even argue that the rain made the collection even that more magical, believe it or not, even though this rose-embroidered tulle gown needs no help in that department.
It was battle of the breakfasts Sunday morning as Brock Collection showed at downtown hotspot Le Coucou and Mansur Gavriel presented their see-now-buy-now fall collection at Spring Studios, with round tables loaded over with delicacies from Ladurée. While Mansur’s fans may gravitate towards the powder-puff pink outerwear, there was a polished selection of navy and army green overcoats that are sure to keep girls warm this winter.
It was nice to see Brock Collection’s feminine wares grow up a bit—though still overtly romantic, they feel less girly and more self-possessed. The added feather flair of this look was unexpected, and was exactly the type of detail that made this collection feel extra-special.
This Boss collection was the first post-Jason Wu that combined both womenswear and men’s. At the core was a selection of suiting, from an easy, breezy relaxed fit in pale pink (an option shown on both a male and female model) and this bold suit, in punchy marigold.
Though the brand’s aesthetic may not be for everyone, the design duo behind Area are certainly having fun creating clothes for girls who are unabashed in their fashion choices. They’ve won themselves a legion of fans who will certainly wear this crystal-encrusted net dress to their next too-cool-for-school party.
Never one to shy away from color, Prabal Gurung’s spring collection felt especially light and easy-to-wear. The same goes for the few men’s looks he debuted, as well.
Set to background music of little kids banging on overturned buckets with drumsticks, the spring collection from Eckhaus Latta featured an earthy palette with pops of red, green—and this great pastel yellow wide-leg jean.
Thank goodness for The Row. After a fashion week that has been somewhat lacking, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen have dreamed up a charming collection that plays with volume, and offered up some exquisite pieces, including this cream gown.
Where is she going, where has she been? There was something for every Oscar client in this collection, a gown for the grande dame, a kaftan for the eccentric collector, a breezy striped blouse for a young girl heading on vacation, and this closing look, one that many women would want to wear—perhaps to a bohemian jet set wedding in some fabulous locale.
Wes Gordon made his debut at Carolina Herrera this New York Fashion Week. After working alongside the namesake designer for over a year, he embraced her poppy, happy colors and occasion dresses. The looks that skewed a bit more laid back and youthful are sure to be popular among Gordon’s cohorts, who are all sure to be Herrera fans once this collection hits stores.
Many a ruffle was spotted on the Zimmermann runway, as well as in the front row, which was lined with influencer devotees decked head to toe in the current collection. The designers’ embrace of western touches and paisley print will be very much embraced by the Aussie brand’s fans, especially when festival season gears up next spring.
Ulla Johnson invited showgoers to the Williamsburgh Savings Bank, where she presented a romantic take on prairie dressing, featuring day looks, and this goddess gown in blush, which seem made for Instagram.
Stuart Vevers’ Coach girl lives for an ankle length prairie dress and leather jacket. Maybe it was the fringed vests and jackets, as well as the set – which looked like a dilapidated oil rig- turned-dinosaur and evoked a deserted western town – that leant the spring collection an unexpected, yet welcome, darker edge.
Leave it to Michael Kors to always have a happy colorful collection. The constant rain and mugginess in New York, the pending hurricane, and news of the White House’s constant fumbles makes one want to pack their suitcases, slip on this white bikini and escape.
Batsheva Hay, of prairie-dress re-creation fame, explored new silhouettes for her latest spring collection, shown in a downtown diner this week. This number, shot on the designer herself by her husband, Alexei Hay, is sure to be a party dress all the girls will be waiting to get their hands on as soon as it hits stores.
Gabriela Hearst’s commitment to well-tailored suiting and dresses – and delicious food at her presentations – are always a genuine highlight of New York Fashion Week. This beautiful day dress, with tiered skirt, is an exercise in restraint, with just the right amount of flounce, fun, and detail.
Raf Simons has always been one to reference films in his work, and this season at CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC is no different. He went the literal route, splashing the Jaws film poster on a tank, printing the CK logo over it. A mix of prints were sprinkled throughout the collection, including a heavy dose of leopard spots, florals, zebra stripes in red.
Name me one girl who doesn’t want to be a
Khaite girl. I’ll wait. It is nearly impossible to choose just one look from this collection, as it all very much speaks to how modern women wish to dress today – the pretty lace bralettes? An absolute must-have. The caped trench coat? You’ll wear it for the rest of your life. The ripped jeans in Look 1? Did I even think I needed distressed jeans anymore? Apparently I do. The buttery brown leather jacket? Heaven. A pleated evening dress in rust? Throw on a chic pair of flats and you’re done. I rest my case.
This fashion week, Jason Wu announced he was making a few changes to his brand – first, his more-millennial-friendly priced Grey line is being rolled into Jason Wu, and his celebrity beloved evening wear is not being re-branded as Jason Wu Collection. It makes sense, and along with these changes Wu opted to forego the runway and do an intimate presentation – which meant everyone got to get up close and personal with this dazzling dress.
Vaquera was perhaps one of the most fun shows of fashion week, a collection that played with all the archetypes of high school, and took place in a school in the Lower East Side. One of the standout editorial pieces was this bustier made of whistles, while others, like a cheerleader-inspired look, looked like it could easily be worn right on the city streets.
Although the Marc Jacobs show was the latest his show has started in recent memory, his concoction of frothy pastel tulle, ostrich feathers, oversized rosettes were what fashion dreams are made of.