The Look

The Most Stylish Men at Pitti Uomo

Held twice yearly at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence, Pitti Uomo is filled with brands new and old, peddling their wares to buyers from all over the globe. This season featured runway shows from Jil Sander, Telfar, and Random Identities, an interesting modern lot which brought a more forward-facing sensibility to the historic setting. Outside the shows, the style situation was a mixed bag. Effortlessly chic older Italian men were sometimes overshadowed by fellas in their wildest fits (think downmarket Boardwalk Empire extra) begging for the attention of anyone with a camera. Ignoring the attention-seekers, I set out to find some cool guys who caught my eye and asked them a few questions. Here, some of my favorite looks from this week.
January 11, 2020 9:00 am
Chenxi Zhao at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Chenxi Zhao at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: Where are you from?

Zhao: Shanghai.

Black: What do you like most about Italy?

Zhao: Pizza.

Chris Olberding at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Chris Olberding at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: Do you eat whatever you want in Italy?

Olberding: Yes! There is nothing in the food, no pesticides. My system works very well here.

Black: How long have you been coming?

Olberding: 12 years.

Black: What has changed? More bozos?

Olberding: Actually, fewer bozos, because of the economy.

Cornelius Drabarczyk vel Grabarczyk
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Cornelius Drabarczyk vel Grabarczyk at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: Incredible name. Sounds royal. I love all this green.

Grabarczyk: My favorite color is navy.

David Coggins at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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David Coggins at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: Seeing a lot of green today, love yours.

Coggins: It’s off-trend. Not that I know what’s on-trend.

Federico Battaglia at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Federico Battaglia at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: These pants are giving me a relaxed 70s vibe. A nice contrast to your hair.

Battaglia: These pants are from my dad. They were too colorful for him, and I said, “Don’t return them, I want to rock them at Pitti.”

Fritz Unuetzer at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Fritz Unuetzer at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: Cardigan under the blazer. Warmth or style?

Unuetzer: Warmth, it’s just super old four-ply cashmere.

Black: Do you often wear a suit?

Unuetzer: For work, yes, to be honest, I put a tie on just for Pitti. On the weekends I don’t dress like this.

John Tietz at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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John Tietz at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: Great hat. Is it Russian?

Tietz: It’s Patagonia.

Julien Boudet at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Julien Boudet at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: Would you call this look, “designer Batman?”

Boudet: No.

Black: What would you call it?

Boudet: Bleu Mode look.

Mishael Phillip at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Mishael Phillip at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: BIG PANTS!

Phillip: They are Shinya Kozuka, a Japanese designer who studied at Central Saint Martins. He just collaborated with Dickies.

Black: They are great. Well-loved.

Petar Spasojevic at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Petar Spasojevic at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: Do you wear penny loafers a lot?

Spasojevic: No.

Black: You have to put pennies in them! Good luck!

Spasojevic: What’s your name again?

Sarper Risvanoglu at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Sarper Risvanoglu at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: You live in Florence?

Risvanoglu: Yes, for school.

Black: It seems like kind of a boring place to live for a cool young guy like yourself!

Risvanoglu: It’s quiet.

Simon Wick at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Simon Wick at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: I see you mixing the technical pants with the vintage cowboy boots.

Wick: They are 66 North, an Icelandic outerwear brand.

Black: No buttons on the shirt? Safety pins?

Wick: It’s a sample from my line. I didn’t have time to make the buttonholes.

Yuchi Takayanagi at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.
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Yuchi Takayanagi at Pitti Uomo 2020. Photo courtesy of Chris Black.

Black: Your whole look is on point, very Liam Gallagher from Oasis with the duffel coat and round shades.

Takayanagi: …