Marc Jacobs’s romance with wigs continues strong, as evidenced by the 47 retro bobs that floated down his Fall 2014 runway. Colorist Victoria Hunter drenched the wigs in muted shades like minky-mushroom brunette, violet-beige blonde, and heathery pink (brows were also dyed to match the wigs, and nails were painted in five corresponding colors). “We were looking at a Seventies kind of beige aesthetic,” explained Guido Palau. “When magazine covers showed a lot of total beige tonality, there’s a perfection to the look.” Palau achieved that perfection by putting locks through the straightening iron with Redken Iron Silk, and finishing with a shot of hairspray. Makeup artist François Nars focused on the eyes, shading them in neutral, earthy pastels. “The inspiration came from the materials and colors of the fabrics,” he explained, shading lids in a light gray, with chocolate brown on the crease and a slash of brown along the top lashes “to create the illusion that the eye is really big.” Somewhat surprisingly, he skipped mascara entirely. “We wanted them to look almost like Greek statues that have no lashes at all.” The statue theme would also explain the completely matte complexion, save for a glimmer of shimmer for lips, which received a dab of transparent, metallic silvery beige.
Backstage Beauty: New York Fashion Week Fall 2014
Photographer: Olivia Locher