Pitti Uomo, held twice a year in Florence, is always a melting pot : a first look at the upcoming season from a worldwide mosaic of brands combining tradition and innovation. For Fall 2017, Pitti Uomo 91 did not disappoint, bringing together sport, sartorial, genderless and a few mind-blowing ideas from all over the world. Here, 10 highlights:
For the male power-dresser, Kiton
”Due o tre cose che so di ciro” Kiton suits, made in Naples since 1956 are the nec plus ultra of masculine power-dressing with the house trademark K-50, entirely made by hand and sold for $50,000 and above. Ciro Paone, aka Mr. Kiton, now in his early 80s, co-founded the brand in the late '60s. A fifth generation fabric merchant his motto, ”the best plus one,” has always guided the company and its 330 tailors, who were all on hand for a fitting at the new exhibit at the Palazzo Gerini dedicated to Paone and curated by the Italian journalist Angelo Flaccavento.
For the Man Looking for Yeezy Meets Zegna, Pronounce
Pronounce is the fruit of Singaporian duo Yushan Li and Jun Zhou’s international experiences. Both studied in London and, later, Zhou worked with Ermenegildo Zegna in Milan and Li had a stint with Yeezy in Los Angeles. Guests of Pitti Uomo’s latest Fashion Buzz, their collection combines workwear and traditional tailoring in big, effortless shapes.
For the classic Englishman, Paul Smith
PS Paul Smith is the Englishman’s take on athleisure, the kind of clothes that look ready to work, but that you can actually wear while doing handstands. To prove it, Sir Paul had a troupe of acrobats dance in the bright sport–colored clothes, with plenty of sock coordination inspired by New York’s factory days.
For Athleisure Done Right, Cottweiler for Reebok
-”A holistic approach in fabrics that have a therapeutic effect on the body“ sounds a bit New Age-y, but Cottweiler for Reebok did have that spiritual highness. Matthew Dainty, who codesigns Cottweiler with Ben Cottrell are London darlings who have quickly risen to the top with their sleek streetwear.
For the Italian Mama's Boy, Magliano
Magliano, by Luca Magliano from Bologna, pads shirts like outerwear and patches camouflage pants with embroidery like tapestry. A highlight of Pitti’s Fashion Buzz, Magliano, now in its second season, comes off like an Italian mama’s boy gone bad in a mix of hand knits, pinstripes uniform and old school jeans.
For the Midwesterner sartorialist, Sansovino 6
”Beauty is being both at peace and in chaos,” says Sansovino 6’s Edward Buchanan. The Ohio-born designer has based his knitwear operations for the past two deacades in Milan where he produces his Sansovino 6 and consults for others. The season’s Pitti Italics designer, Buchanan produced a genderless, oversized collection of soft turtlenecks and ponchos in intriguing plaid-like patchwork knits.
For the Studio 54 nostalgist, Carlo Volpi
Carlo Volpi ran away from Italy to London a long time ago, but his Tuscan-bred knitwear talent never left him. Volpi, who has taught knit design in London, recently established an atelier there where he works back and forth from his native Tuscany. As part of Pitti Italics, Volpi’s ”Fall from Grace“ fall collection takes a bright-colored, twisted look back at Studio 54 Disco sloganeering with fine and complex sweaters covered with sweatshirt graphics: "Chill Pill," "Disco Monster," clattering teeth argyle and the poetic ”So Young, So Gone“ were standouts.
For Classic Italian Outerwear, M140
M140 is short for Milano140, inspired by the address of the brand’s first ”lab“ in a small town in northern Italy. Stefano Ghidotti and his brother have taken over the factory specializing in high-quality home and outerwear founded by their parents in 1961. Working with an unnamed designer, the collection takes a genderless look at the ”old school male closet“ in a mix of pajama and outerwear tailoring in big shapes combining wooly checks, nylon and crisp poplin shirting.
For the Man After "Fluid Armor," Sulvam
Sulvam comes from a word in Latin that means improvisation which was the ideal choice for Teppei Fujita’s collection which aims to defy genres. Fujita got his start with Yohji Yamamoto as a patternmaker and Sulvam, the brand he founded in 2014, has that long, voluminous look Yamamoto is known for. Genderless floor-sweeping shapes combined with shirt stripes, raggedy knit tunics and what looks like a kind of fluid armor.
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