Copenhagen Fashion Week—often regarded as the oddball second cousin of the more lavish, big-name European shows—is in the midst of a sea change. Each season, the city’s three-day presentations kick off the international fashion calendar. And year after year, the Danes are known for their approachable, safe, and sensible designs. For the spring 2023 season, however, Copenhagen flipped the script, with established labels like Ganni and Saks Potts—both brands known to send candy-colored, pattern-heavy looks down their respective runways—swerving in the opposite direction. At Saks Potts, the palette was a more muted range of earth tones with pops of red, pink, and blue. Glamorous gold touches gave off an air of disco—exactly the kind of thing Beyoncé might wear to her own Renaissance club. Ganni—much like the emerging brands A Roege Hove and The Garment, which also showed at CFW—shifted their attention to textiles, focusing on sequin, cashmere, or suede accents. And, true to its mission statement, every brand that showed kept its eye trained upon sustainability. This is Denmark, after all.
Below, photographer Luka Roné takes us behind the scenes at all the major shows from Copenhagen Fashion Week, giving an exclusive look at the pre-runway process—and, of course, the fashions.