This year’s spring/summer 2024 men’s fashion week was one for the history books. Seven years ago—when the men’s arm of women’s ready-to-wear shows were still steeped in relative obscurity—we might not have made that kind of statement. But in 2023, it’s far from an exaggeration. This season, Pharrell Williams made his highly anticipated debut as the new creative director for Louis Vuitton menswear; Fendi, meanwhile, headlined the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence. Ludovic de Saint Sernin will close out Paris Men’s Fashion Week just a month shy of it being announced that he was leaving Ann Demeulemeester following a single short season at the helm of the house.
On June 12, Saint Laurent kicked things off with a special show in Berlin. Titled “Each Man Kills the Thing He Loves,” designer Anthony Vaccarello’s collection was unveiled inside the German capital’s Neue Nationalgalerie, “a Modernist masterpiece,” according to the brand. Indeed, that sort of designation applies to the collection, too—a range of gender-fluid garments printed with polka dot or leopard print, paired with high-waist, fluted pants. The pièce de résistance? Saint Laurent’s classic tuxedo, paired with a body-skimming satin tank top. Four days later, on June 16, Ralph Lauren returned to the schedule with a presentation of his always dapper Purple Label in Milan.
Fast-forward five months to November, when Celine revealed its long-awaited collection on the 28th. After canceling its spring 2024 show, Hedi Slimane released “Delusional Daydream,” a short film he shot between Paris and Monaco featuring the classical ballet dancer Laurids Seidel. Set to an extended version of LCD Soundsystem’s “Losing My Edge,” Slimane’s designs were on view against a glittering runway show. The inspiration? New York City, of course. “The emergence of a strong, utopian, and free artistic youth, from the area of ‘Dimes Square’ to the borders of Brooklyn, confirms the return of the New York scene,” a statement from Celine read.
We’ll continue tracking the standout looks as soon as they hit the runway. Check back here often for the highlights.
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