A few weeks ago, Maria Grazia Chiuri followed up on her equality-preaching debut at Christian Dior with a feminist fairytale of a couture show, which saw Stephen Jones-designed headpieces and feather crowns gracefully top off models’s ethereal heads. As it turned out, they proved a perfect sign of the times: in the politically tumultuous weeks since, Chiuri and her team wrapped up the house’s Fall 2017 collection which, this weekend at Paris Fashion Week, showed her girls have grown a bit hardened in the short time since. Rather than feathers, models marched down the runway in Jones’s militant-style leather berets—a more somber tone followed through with military trenches and a largely black and navy palette, which transplanted the house’s logo from previous locations like Bella Hadid’s underwear to cross-body straps. That’s not to say things were exactly downcast. Mixed in there, too, were fur coats, corset-waisted gowns, shimmering gold space motifs, sheer dresses, deep velvets, plunging necklines, and even head-to-toe denim, all against the backdrop of a dreamlike fog.