“Blue eye shadows scare people,” admits Estée Lauder’s creative makeup director, Tom Pecheux. His intention in introducing the Pure Color Five Color EyeShadow Palette in Blue Dahlia is to dust off the color’s tarnished and tacky reputation. A warm teal and a slate-tinged navy are grouped with taupe, black and a colorless shimmer powder, allowing wearers to create looks that range from low-key to runway-worthy. “You can do a crazy fashionable blue, but you can also do a nude eye with a touch of blue,” he explains. “It’s meant to be playful.” While Pecheux insists that “there is no recipe for how to use [the palette],” he does caution that “there is no way, even for me, to put those five colors on at the same time.”
The truth about the no-effort, no-makeup look? It requires some effort, specif ically in the skincare department. One necessity is a moisturizer that sinks in quickly, adding softness without stickiness or shine. That’s the case with Olay’s new Total Effects Plus Cooling Hydration moisturizer. The product contains mint extract and less oil, which makes for a formula that feels not only light but refreshingly chilled. “Skin’s temperature actually goes down,” says Rolanda Johnson, senior scientist at Procter & Gamble Beauty. “We measured it.”
Since its debut in spring 2009, Dolce & Gabbana The Make Up has become known for its bold, statement-making products like fif ire-engine red lipstick and strong, metallic eye shadows. But this season the brand’s creative director, Pat McGrath, is seeking more neutral ground. Summer’s Sicilian Lace Collection is a study in subtlety: a rosy gold bronzer, a caramelized lip gloss, a camel nail color and an understated shadow quad of nude, dark brown, taupe and peach. Of course, McGrath is not advising women to go completely beige. Her prescription: “A nude lip, with a bit of color around the eye, can look gorgeous.”
“All those photos of Brigitte Bardot and Romy Schneider—they were big inspirations,” says Gracemarie Papaleo, assistant vice president, product development, at Lancôme, who turned to a coffee-table book about the heyday of Saint-Tropez when she was dreaming up the brand’s latest collection. One key to the Sixties screen-siren look: major mascara. And this summer Lancôme is launching Déf inicils Precious Cells. In addition to making lashes appear longer and fuller, the mascara contains rejuvenating ingredients poached from Lancôme’s skincare labs, including peptides and lipids derived from apple extract.
“Very light and very sheer” is the summer makeup mantra for Tyen, Dior Makeup’s uni- monikered creative director. Case in point: Dior’s new 01-Colour Extreme Eye Shadow in Golden Spotlight, which is at once frosty and transparent. The effect is achieved via a Japanese technique called “slurry processing,” in which pigment powders are soaked in oil. The goal, says Tyen, is to impart “the feeling that you’re wearing something cool and icy.”
Hair by Eugene Souleiman/Wella Professionals; makeup by Diane Kendal; manicure by Yuna Park/Streeters. Model: Anna Jagodzinska/Ford. Digital technician: Quinton Jones. Photography assistants: Chris Ferretti, Huan Nguyen and Maru Teppei. Fashion assistants: Eileen Hayes and Katie Casamassimo.