This season may be Maison Poiret’s first on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, but the house in fact already has a history that none of the other brands can compete with. Paul Poiret didn’t just start a label when he created Maison Poiret at the beginning of the 20th century, but also something of a revolution: he dared to reject the petticoat, and then, a few years later, even the corset. (He also paved way for fashion labels to dabble in the moneymakers that are fragrances—a full decade before Mademoiselle Chanel.) Now, nearly a century after all that change took place, Maison Poiret, which has laid dormant since the 1930, has suddenly resurfaced: This weekend, the house’s new Beijing-born artistic director, Yiqing Yin, showed the house’s first collection under her helm at the fall 2018 shows, taking care to emphasize some of the many designs Poiret is credited with having pioneered, like harem pants and the sack dress. But as evidenced by standout additions like silky, acid green silky trousers, silvery pleated skirts that trailed on the floor, and heels that rested on what appeared to be nails, it seems she’ll be breathing some life of her own into the house. Take it all in from backstage, here.