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Get Lost in Thom Browne’s First Show in Paris, a Dark, Twisted Take on The Little Mermaid

Photographed by Adam Katz Sinding

2017 Adam Katz Sinding

In July, Thom Browne announced he was moving his womenswear show from New York to Paris, where he has long shown his menswear collections. And while he said at the time he did not anticipate the move would affect his approach to design, his Paris Fashion Week debut on Tuesday, which, notably, also included a unicorn, was perhaps his most ambitious yet. For his latest show, Browne traded in last season’s frozen pastoral landscape for an under-the-sea dreamscape. He sought inspiration in “two girls dreaming of unicorns and mermaids, and all the things that little girls dream of,” he told Vogue after the show; the soundtrack included “Part of Your World,” the classic theme from The Little Mermaid, and models wore pristine pink ballet shoes and Browne’s trademark suiting wreathed in poufs of organza and tulle that resembled sea creatures. But Browne’s vision of a fairytale hewed more towards the Brothers Grimm; for every glitter-encrusted seashell, there was also a lumpy, misshapen carapace, and for every dreamy mermaid tail, there were the tentacles of sea creatures wrapping themselves around a model’s body. It was a synthesis of the romantic and the twisted, at once creepy and enchanting, and the strongest evidence that “the most underestimated designer in New York” is now Paris’s most exciting newcomer. Go inside Thom Browne’s Paris Fashion Week debut, here.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.

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Backstage before the presentation of Thom Brown’s spring/summer 2018 collection, presented in Paris during Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday, October 3rd. Photo by Adam Katz Sinding for W Magazine.