It must take quite the fashion week appointment to keep Joe Jonas from attending the Game of Thrones wedding with Sophie Turner—but that’s exactly what Kim Jones’s debut as the designer of Dior Homme offered in Paris on Saturday. Jones, who departed Louis Vuitton in January and joined Dior just three months ago, took over the Garde républicaine, the home of Paris’s gendarmerie, for his first collection for the brand during the Spring 2019 menswear shows. The show was rife with references to the Dior of old—a bee motif, a fabric intended to echo the upholstery in a former studio of founder Christian Dior, a rose pattern honoring the selfsame Dior’s flower of choice—as well as new silhouettes and collaborations, and an emphasis on making menswear couture. (“I’d call it romantic, rather than feminine,” Jones reportedly said backstage at the show.)
It was just a few days after Virgil Abloh made his own debut of another storied, LVMH-owned brand: Louis Vuitton, the same house Jones had just departed a few months before. So it was only rational that Abloh, whom Jones had played a role in mentoring prior to his arrival at Vuitton, sat front row at the show. Abloh joined Kanye West and A$AP Rocky, a longtime muse of the brand, along with other attendees including the aforementioned Jonas (whom Turner FaceTimed upon her arrival in Scotland for the Harington-Leslie nuptials), who was spotted caucusing with Darren Criss; fashion’s old guard Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, and Victoria Beckham (with her son, Brooklyn Beckham); a roster of British musicians including Rita Ora, Skepta, Lily Allen, and the xx; models Bella Hadid (wearing a suit from the collection) and Winnie Harlow; Robert Pattinson, another Dior Homme face, alongside the brand’s former designer Kris Van Assche; artists Takashi Murakami and Michèle Lamy, wife of Rick Owens; and other designers including Haider Ackermann, Karl Lagerfeld, and Grace Wales Bonner. Iris Law was there; so was Luka Sabbat. (It's sort of a wonder there was any room left for the fashion editors and writers who regularly also populate the biggest fashion week appointments.) Ahead of the show, Jones began posting a series of Instagrams featuring some of his front-row stars (and Kim Kardashian) in the studio.
On the runway, too, there was no shortage of talent. Jones, who frequently engaged in collaborations like that with Supreme while at Louis Vuitton, also got other designers on the runway, including Yoon Ahn, the Ambush designer who was recently recruited as Dior’s new jewelry designer, and Matthew Williams, the designer behind Alyx, who designed a logo belt buckle for the show. Models filed around a massive effigy of Christian Dior himself, constructed out of pink, black, and white flowers by the artist KAWS (who was also responsible for the bee motif).
And it may have competed for attention with the other royal wedding, but Kim Jones’s Dior Homme debut bore its own royal stamp: Prince Nikolai of Denmark, making his runway debut, opened the show.
“I’m half Danish, and Mr. Dior always had that thing with royalty, and so I thought it would be nice to open with a prince,” Jones told The Guardian. “Quite glamorous, isn’t it?”