Three collections in, the excitement surrounding Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s partnership at the helm of Prada has yet to fade. Their third, presented on Thursday, was once again a taped runway show, followed by a discussion about questions like “What is the Prada-ness?” This time, Simons and Mrs. Prada were particularly delighted by one response: “a deep form of dislike,” the architect Rem Koolhaas said. “You explore every aspect of what you dislike, and then kind of do something with this energy.” (“That’s so true,” Simons replied, laughing along with Mrs. Prada.)
One thing the pair definitely does like, though, is fur. It was everywhere, including on the floors and walls of Koolhaas’s technicolored set. Just like Kim Jones at Fendi the day prior, Simons and Mrs. Prada went all in with an array of multicolored shrugs and coats. Some models clutched them close, referencing how women in the 1920s would hold buttonless, often cocoon-like designs together with their hands. Unlike at Fendi, the fur at Prada was faux. (The Prada Group, which includes Miu Miu, hopped aboard the fur-free train in 2019.)
Simons had previously carried his signature slogans over to Prada, peppering phrases like “picture yourself: a triangle-shaped labyrinth, spinning round” throughout his Prada debut. This time, though, the only letters to be found were the five on the house’s triangular logo. Per usual, they accented handbags, some of which were miniature and attached to models’ gloves. The tiny bag trend continues, though Simons and Mrs. Prada haven’t gone so far as to make them into jewelry just yet.