The spring 2026 shows may have ended in October, but the trends found on the runways in New York, London, Milan, and Paris are still fresh on our minds. While each brand presented a distinct vision for the pivotal season, as always, there were certain themes and throughlines that connected the collections. Here are ten of our favorites, which you’ll surely see everywhere come spring of next year.
Back to the Archives
Spring 2026 was marked by two words: designer debut. (Well, maybe four words: “designer debut,” and “sophomore collection.”) Creative directors were doing their research in their new roles, diving into house codes (another two-word phrase oft used this season) and archives with wide eyes and open minds. The collections contained flourishes of personality amid all the classics. At Chanel, Matthieu Blazy’s tweed skirt suits looked softer, almost weightless. Louise Trotter incorporated Bottega Veneta’s woven Intrecciato leather into her first show. Pierpaolo Piccioli drew inspiration from Balenciaga’s iconic Sack Dress. Jonathan Anderson shrunk Dior’s bar jacket; for his second collection, Michael Rider paired a Phoebe Philo-like oversize blazer with Hedi Slimane-esque skinny jeans at Celine. Dario Vitale’s Versace looked back at Gianni Versace’s 1980s, Miami-inflected collections. Gucci creative director Demna honored the label’s history in luggage-making, while Simone Bellotti opened his Jil Sander show with model and friend of the house Guinevere van Seenus—wearing a look reminiscent of the ones she donned in her unforgettable ’90s ads for Jil.
From left: Balenciaga, Chanel, Bottega Veneta, and Dior.
The Age of Enlightenment
Designers assumed a “let them eat cake” outlook for spring 2026, referencing 18th-century silhouettes left and right. Alaïa, Balenciaga, and Christopher John Rogers showed costume-like volume around the hips. Gucci and Saint Laurent sent looks down their runways that bore ballooning bell sleeves. And Jonathan Anderson’s lace veiling and exaggerated headpieces looked straight out of the history books.
From left: Alaïa, Christopher John Rogers, Dior, and Saint Laurent.
The New Eveningwear
Behold, a fresh way to dress at night: pair a simple staple with something slinky, sexy, or totally out-there. We saw lots of hybrid moments on the spring 2026 runways: t-shirts worn with enormous feathered skirts at Chanel, Bottega’s knit version styled with a recycled fiberglass skirt, or Dior’s take on the tuxedo (knitted, with a bib, kind of like loungewear). Lii turned the classic white tee into a chic cocktail dress (Jennifer Lawrence was recently spotted wearing the full look on the streets of NYC).
From left: Chanel, Dior, Diotima, and Lii.
Primary School
One way to stand out for spring is by embracing this colorful trend, which puts bright, pigmented colors on bold display, especially primary hues. Designers used striking jewel tones and deeply saturated colors to telegraph messages and tell stories this season. Loewe and Jil Sander found inspiration in the visual artist Ellsworth Kelly’s palette, while Fendi favored sunflower yellows. Dior and Lii showcased vibrant greens; Ralph Lauren and Akris delivered striking reds.
From left: Dior, Fendi, Jil Sander, and Ralph Lauren.
Medieval Core
There were plenty of groundbreaking floral prints seen on the runways this season—but we also spied looks that functioned as a contrast to all that flou. Armor-like aesthetics were everywhere, with designs that embodied medieval protective gear. At Burberry, Daniel Lee made mini dresses in a chain mesh pattern worn over slacks. Conner Ives created a demi-couture chainmail gown made entirely of stainless steel. The black hooded gown at Colleen Allen brought whimsy to the trend, and the most straightforward example could arguably be found at Yuhan Wang: a knight’s breastplate.
From left: Burberry, Chopova Lowena, Conner Ives, and Yuhan Wang.
In Motion
Movement seemed to be a defining feature of many of the collections—garments that took on a life of their own when worn. Chanel’s form-fitting gown with a ruffled hemline really swung as the model walked. Duran Lantink created a flying dress with wings, and McQueen made the train of this gown so large, it looked like a hot air balloon was trailing behind it.
From left: Bottega Veneta, Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, and McQueen.
Hotsy-Totsy
Beads, embellishments, dropped waistlines—designers approached spring 2026 with the 1920s on their minds. So many looks embodied a time when women were moving away from clothing as constraints (corsets, etc.) and running toward dressing more freely. Tory Burch gave flapper dresses a modernized twist, while Maximillian Davis focused his entire Ferragamo collection on the house founder’s connection to Africana in the ’20s. At Versace, Vitale’s sequin, silvery dresses were pure Art Deco.
From left: Chanel, Tory Burch, Valentino, and Versace.
The Helmut Lang Effect
Nineties nostalgia has been an enduring trend for the past few years, and seems to still hold the public’s imagination. The late Melanie Ward, who passed away on October 22, styled many of Helmut Lang’s canonic collections, campaigns, and editorials—all of which had a big influence on this lasting look. Her stamp could be felt on the spring 2026 collections: unfussy, minimal, sleek, a little bit sexy. We saw the look at Eckhaus Latta, with this simple but not basic spaghetti-strap top. We saw different versions of sheath dresses at Jil Sander and Lii, plus sexier examples at Max Mara and Tom Ford.
From left: Eckhaus Latta, Ferragamo, Jil Sander, and Lii.
OnlyFashions
A lot of skin can go a long, long way. Designers seemed to draw inspo from sex-positive apps like OnlyFans for spring 2026, bringing new meaning to cheeky outfits or busty gowns. McQueen showcased a fresh take on low-rise “bumster” silhouettes; Hermès, a brand that usually skews prim, surprised us with a leather bustier. Loewe, Prada, and Givenchy opened up shirts for a hint of midriff. And Jean Paul Gaultier’s Lantink? He cut out the whole backside.
From left: Prada, Hermès, Jean Paul Gaultier, and McQueen.
Working Girl
Here’s a fashionable look at life in the 1980s corporate jungle. The ’80s were all about one thing: power. The economy was booming, and women wanted in. They weren’t afraid to dress the part, either. We saw this trend coming to life especially in Dario Vitale’s debut for Versace, where standout styles included super-exaggerated shoulders. There were bold, Miami Vice-esque colors at Chloé and Valentino, plus extreme hourglass silhouettes at Saint Laurent.
From left: Chloé, Saint Laurent, Valentino, and Versace.
