Though fashion week in Paris may appear to be the most glamorous of all the events that fashion jetsetters flock to (and
hope to be invited to), the most covetable invite is to globe-trot around the world at the behest of the world’s most famous fashion houses, to take in each brand’s individual resort show. This season, Chanel took us on a cruise smack in the middle of the Grand Palais, and Dior whisked guests away to the Domaine de Chantilly, where female rodeo riders dashed their horses among ornate dresses. Louis Vuitton always presents its resort shows at the most important architectural gems, (an Oscar Niemeyer–designed museum in Rio de Janeiro, an I.M. Pei–designed museum in Kyoto, and the Bob Hope house in Palm Springs have all provided elaborate backdrops for Nicolas Ghesquière’s shows in the past), and this year was no exception, with guests taking in the collection at the Fondation Maeght’s sculpture garden. Not one to be outdone, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele invited fashion insiders and guests like A$AP Rocky to the Roman necropolis of Arlescamps, France, where his models charted a course around a burial ground among waist-high flames. Although much is to be made about the grand locations and daring pyrotechnics, there was some great fashion too. Here are the best looks of the resort season so far.
Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais into a cruise ship at port, and what more fitting of a theme to kick off the resort season. Nautical-inspired looks, complete with white tights, paraded around
La Causa, and then Lagerfeld himself invited everyone on board for a post-show cocktail.
As female Mexican rodeo riders galloped around an area at the Domaine de Chantilly, France, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented lace, embroidered, and animal-inspired looks for Dior’s resort show.
Many of the Louis Vuitton resort exits pushed house codes further by including great tailoring, strong shoulders, and mixed prints; this sheer robe with metallic embroidery and beading is sure to be on the front-row actresses’ wish list for future red-carpet outings.
Alessandro Michele does seem to love a dramatic show, and this resort outing was no different. His beloved mixed prints, vintage flair, sequins, and denim all made the mark, but the final bridal look felt equal parts enticing and ghostly in the old Roman burial grounds outside of Arles, France.
Miuccia Prada brought her resort collection stateside, much to the delight of the New York–based fashion crowd. The show itself was a throwback to some of her best prints, motifs, and nylon accessories of the ’90s, a favorite of which was the first exit, a minimal take on ’90s Prada.
For Clare Waight Keller’s first resort showing for Givenchy, she drew upon her British roots, Japanese motifs inspired by a recent trip, and ’80s style shoulders. While this deep-orange lace dress is stunning, chances are many women still are dreaming of the royal wedding dress, custom designed (and kept secret!) by Waight Keller for Meghan Markle.
Pierpaolo Piccioli has been playing with the Valentino logo for a couple of seasons now, most notably dropping all the vowels from the house name and splashing “VTLN” on everything from tees to fur. This season, Piccioli has created cheeky printed dresses of all lengths that play with the logo’s lettering, while some more formal looks feature embroidered and beaded
V‘s in varying sizes for a graphic effect.
Natasha Ramsay-Levi has continued her equestrian motif into her resort collection, and there is no doubt that fashion fans will be clamoring for this knit, her floral and horsey prints, mismatched jewelry, and clever socks once they hit stores.
Tomas Maier’s resort collection included a bevy of prints, with this geo-print dress and leopard spot coat topping the list.
Paul Surridge dreamed up a plenty of prints for Roberto Cavalli’s resort collection, and a mash of orchids and tropical fauna was a getaway-appropriate change to the house’s favored zebra stripes and leopard spots.
Joseph Altuzarra’s resort collection was inspired by his family’s vacation home in Italy. There was a lot to love in this playful and charming collection, but many editors kept going back to an asymmetric skirt with a high slit (a familiar Altuzarra silhouette) in gingham with lace trim.
The Max Mara resort collection was presented in the brand’s hometown, Reggio Emilia, Italy. Guests, including
Alexandra Shipp, a new face of the brand, and editors took tours of the archives (many tried on classic camel coats from years past) and had the chance to peep the privately held Collezione Maramotti, where the collection was held. This elegant dress, as well as a few one-shoulder numbers, were absolute favorites, and will be sure to be snapped up as soon as they hit the sales floor.
Though the two have been working side by side, this is Wes Gordon’s first full collection for the house of Carolina Herrera. While the respectful collection featured many Carolina-isms (of course there was a white button down in there!), the more youthful, relaxed feeling came though in an easy-to-wear powder blue suit, florals in cotton, and a cheeky every-color-of-the-rainbow ensemble.
Fabiana Filippi’s resort collection (the Umbria-based brand’s first pre-collection, ever) focused on texture, featuring smooth metallics, cashmere, shearlings and nylons. This pleated maxi dress in nude was a favorite.
The medusa is back at Versace, and for resort the iconic image has been reinterpreted into new prints that feel youthful and joyous and sure to keep the brand’s new fans engaged.
This season, Stuart Vevers was inspired by the Viper Room, the Sunset Strip club that in its ’90s heyday was co-owned by Johnny Depp. California palm knits were thrown over long skirts that carried over from his all collection, and some looks even featured collectable official Viper Room collab merch tees.
No matter what season it is, chances are Balmain will provide the clothes necessary to be the life of the party. This Cuban-themed collection also featured new ways to wear the Balmain logo, catnip for the house’s superfans when the collection hits stores.
Known for his feminine silhouettes, this pink and silver resort look from Erdem featured detachable puffy sleeves.
Designer Paul Andrew gets into the logo game with this matching trench coat and bucket bag, all in a Ferragamo logo print.
This resort collection was shot on Atlantic Beach, a place Kors fondly remembers visiting with his family. Along with big turquoise print florals, gingham, and scuba fabrics, there was this easy cover-up and oversized checkered bag with fringe trim, which many a Michael Kors fan will be toting to the beach next year.
Though this resort collection was chock full of mixed prints, Veronica Etro embraced enchanted garden prints that will be essential for the jetset’s warm weather getaways this winter.
Tailoring was a huge trend for fall, especially skirt suits. For resort, Fendi has continued this trend with a feminine nipped waist checkered ensemble.
Cate Holstein has perfected denim and knitwear under her line Khaite, and this season she turned to offerings that were meant for a holiday party. From chic polka dot gowns to this elegant crop top number, the Khaite girl will have plenty to chose from come New Year’s Eve.
While Missoni is known for their bright stripes and lurex fabrications, the minimalist will fall in love with resort’s muted tones and cozy sweaters.
Julie de Libran offered up two takes on the classic Breton strip for resort. The Sonia Rykiel girl loves both—she’ll just wear the look on the left in the south of France and the look on the right in Paris’ Left Bank.
Sorbet shades proved popular at the Oscar de la Renta resort show in New York—and also across the pond, where the elegant Doria Ragland, mother of the royal bride, wore a pale green ensemble from Oscar for her daughter Meghan Markle’s big day.
Laid-back luxury was key for the Akris resort collection, which offered up art-inspired and color-blocked separates.
For the CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC pre-spring collection, Raf Simons went back to school, pulling logos from Cal, Yale, Berkeley, and other Ivy-League schools to decorate his oversized cozy knits and super-layered silhouettes.